Chalayan Captures Millennial Entitlement in Spring 2018 Collection

Chalayan Captures Millennial Entitlement in Spring 2018 Collection

Chalayan captures an aura of despair and entitlement inspired by the digital age for his Spring 2018 collection.

Chalayan captures an aura of despair and entitlement inspired by the digital age for his Spring 2018 collection.

Text: Cassidy Morrison

Hussein Chalayan is no stranger to the oblique or the suspenseful. His designs embody modernity, contemporary art and geometric structure. On the surface, his Spring 2018 collection is no different. But in conversation with Vogue writer Luke Leitch, Chalayan opened up about the collection’s underlying thematic elements. Chalayan was inspired “by the idea of the lost individuals in a digital world. And living with the opinion of others, but at the same time being empowered by the entitled state… On the one hand, the weakened position that relies on the opinion of others; but at the same time, those individuals who are quite entitled.”

“I feel like it’s this peculiar situation that I see a lot. I teach in Vienna — I’m the head of the fashion department there, and I see it… in young people,” said Chalayan to WWD. “They’re desperate but they’re really entitled as well. So I really wanted to create an aura of that.” The digital age, Chalayan maintains, fosters trademark millennial entitlement coupled with self-doubt. The aura, as he calls it, lends itself to structural yet feminine designs, including draping over the face. But in perfect Chalayan fashion, the aura was more implicit than obvious.

Gray suiting and dresses were worn with veils and sunglasses. Loosely tailored pants that framed the body and offered femininity to masculine structure also included protruded panels of fabric to the sides. Otherwise plain dresses were adorned with small Post-It notes to mimic instantaneous communication through texting.

Chalayan’s “aura” encapsulated the peculiar millennial mood perfectly. Frames around the body to lend confidence, draping fabric to undermine such confidence. Chalayan would doubtless say this was not meant to be taken literally. But his message comes across clearly through his collection.

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold/indigital.tv

UP NEXT

Every Look From Fendi's Spellbinding Spring 2018 Collection