Debuted in a Chanel-transformed Paramount Studio lot, the french fashion house’s Cruise ‘23 collection painted a glamorous tribute to the Los Angeles written about in the novels of Eve Babitz and portrayed in golden age films – meaning the black-and-white runway was every inch an homage to mystique, sophistication, hedonism and above all else, Hollywood. 

The fitting studio setting proved to be the perfect arena for Chanel to unveil the collection, uniting the reverie of film figures with classic Californian pursuits. “Between a tribute to the glamor of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with aerobics, sports and roller skating, between the dream on one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance,” says creative director Virginie Viard. Playful patterns, reimagined fabrics and new flamboyant tones encapsulated her vision, carefully balancing Chanel’s classic timelessness with Hollywood’s charming exuberance. 

The colorful, joyful world of this show is one best enjoyed in acts, watching as the glamor-inspired pieces influenced by iconic silhouettes of the 1920s and 1930s evolve through time to the rhythmic and disco-esq styles of the 1970s and 1980s, all while a soundtrack of orchestration crescendos into an upbeat techno-tune. Rhinestone-covered mini-shorts – perhaps the ever-adored mini-skirts new best friend? – and Barbie pink tweed ensembles with daring necklines marry together Chanel synonymous silhouettes with a summer spirit, as do the pairings of timeless House pastels with new neon hues of yellow, pink and orange. Psychedelic patterns on flowing gowns center around the iconic interlocking CC logos, and flared sleeves, flowing maxi skirts and shimmering champagne fabrics all bring the fun of the 1970s to the runway’s party. 

Speaking of fabrics, crêpe de chine and terrycloth starred as summer’s most wanted materials, while reflective sequins and leather took on the role of night-out essentials. Even Chanel’s iconic tweed saw a sparkly reimagination inspired by the bright lights of Hollywood. Looks were accessorized with maximalist necklace layers and a range of larger purses and totes in the collections warm color palette. Leg warmers also make an appearance, a subtle nod to the funky athleisure of the 1980s that people can’t seem to get enough of. 

This Cruise collection is one of collective imagination – Chanel presents a reality where sailor-inspired gold-sequined suit jackets with plunging necklines and hot pants are the optimal choices for conducting business meetings and pastel bustiers, coordinating floor-length jackets and iridescent heels are effortlessly casual beach-wear choices.

As Virginie shares, “The idea is to offer a breath of fresh air, a voyage, a light-hearted and happy fantasy.” One could definitely say that was accomplished.