Despite it being the middle of summer in Paris, Chanel’s newest collection brought a crisp chill to the air, transporting attendee’s from July to a cool autumn day as they debuted their Fall-Winter 2023/24 Haute Couture. With a runway on a cobblestone street doused in hues of pink alongside the Seine and omnipresent Eiffel Tower, Virginie Viard’s collection paints a portrait of the sensitive yet bold Parisienne – the woman so often imitated but rarely truly embodied.
An ode to the City of Lights, Chanel named French icon Vanessa Paradis as the face of the collection. Amidst both the purity and precision of the clothing – flowing organza dresses waltz down the runway as do wool crêpe dresses and suits – the actress and musician embodies the Parisienne allure central to the collection. Playing off of a certain aura of nonchalance and sophistication, the created wardrobe is a reintroduction of Chanel classics (floral motifs, lace and multi-colored tweed) amongst equally elegant, poised elements.
“Playing with opposites and contrasts, with nonchalance and elegance, is like standing on a line between strength and delicacy, which, at Chanel, is what we call allure,” Viard explains. “If we’re in Paris,” she adds, “and this time we’re in Paris itself, on the quayside. The street and the colorful paving stones call for both sophistication and simplicity.”
And the collection is definitely alluring. Mysterious yet classic, for every classic Chanel silhouette is a counterpart. A winter color palette of black, white, navy and red meet the more lively pinks and golds, as tailored tweed jackets and skirts meet sheer overlay and light tulle. Heavy and light textures play amongst one another, creating a welcomed juxtaposition. In contrast with Chanel’s typical tailored blazer, long masculine-inspired overcoats and waistcoats balance tiered ruffles and flouncy blouses, as bright floral accents against black dresses and jackets add a eye-catching pop of color. Playful accessories such as the fruit basket pay homage to their Parisian roots, inspired by the wicker basket favored by the city in the 1970s.
Attended by stars including Kendrick Lamar, Margaret Qualley, Camila Morrone, Lupita Nyong’o, Sofia Coppola and Riley Keough, Chanel’s Haute Couture collection creates a portrayal of the allure of Paris and those who inhabit the city, aiming to capture that certain je ne se quoi. In doing so, the textures of Chanel’s fabrics and images of their classic motifs create a collection based on femininity, glamor and the effortless elegance of Paris.