Chaotic Neutral: We11done FW22
The “devil is in the details” for this prodigious label
We11done’s FW22 collection is a “chaotic neutral” space where nothing is off limits, and opportunities are endless. The South Korean label’s newest show is inspired by a dichotomy between 17th century renaissance details and futuristic minimalism – two aesthetics that could be polarizing in theory, but somehow appear synchronous. The brand’s PR team states that this collection is about the “power of oppositions”: it comprises contrasting eras, eclectic silhouettes, and textural dichotomies. However, their amalgam of eras is harmonious and elegant, with a self-appointed aim to “elegantly counterpoise, never to shock.”
We11done aims to disrupt the status quo and to expand the realm of sartorial potential, through elevated, off-kilter pieces. The mise-en-scene for their virtual runway show is no different – a striking metallic setting that evokes a house of mirrors; highlighting the glossy materials used to create this collection. Highlights include mirrored PVC over-the-knee boots paired with matching metallic futuristic dresses, and renaissance-esque collars in pastel hues.
Gray “school uniform-esque” flannels and simple black leather pieces are paired with high-octane aspects, such as iridescent sequins and maribou feather collars. Structured tailoring was nowhere to be found, and instead replaced by elegant draping and subtle pleats. Somehow, the excess of textures appears simplistic – truly in the fashion of “chaotic neutral.”
Like many other FW22 runway collections, oversized tote bags were superfluous. We11done personalized these Y2K-esque accessories with the collection’s signature iridescent fabric, and paired them with unstructured sartorial schoolgirl sets. In the same vein, blazers were oversized and unstructured, paired with asymmetrical pleated skirts and bermuda shorts. Accessories included decadent pearls and spike-accented jewelry, evoking a neo-Victorian aesthetic. We11done argues that their “diametrical possibilities are reflected into infinity and beyond,” creating “a state of revolutionized neutrality.” It is chaotic and profusive, yet stunningly cultivated.