What happens when a design house as storied as Christian Dior enters the matrix? For creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, that journey entailed structural outerwear, flashy colors, and the blurring of aesthetic and function: a journey to the heyday of the French house as well as a glimpse into its tech-focused future.

As a pre-show buzz filled the air, guests gathered in an immersive space at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris while surrounded by framed works of contemporary artist Mariella Bettineschi. An Italian native, Bettineschi is lauded for her thoughtful, provocative pieces that highlight the strength and complexities of women. At the show, the artist’s sprawling works—many of which are mashups of famous paintings like the ‘Mona Lisa’ and ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’—were a dramatic backdrop to Chiuri’s future-focused ready-to-wear.

This season, Chiuri opened the show with an all-black, glow-in-the-dark bodysuit, the first of a series of looks designed in collaboration with D-Air Lab. Layered over archival silhouettes were expandable vests, tech-filled bustiers, and moveable functions unseen to the eye. Not only integrating interactivity, Chiuri infused neon color-blocking and bold stripes to further the already Space Age-meets-future-meets-past aesthetic.

Too, codes of house founder Christian Dior were strewn throughout the collection, offering a sartorial conversation between the past and the future. Deep blue tights worn underneath cut-to-perfection bar suits and leather racing gloves paired with dresses à la the ‘New Look’ proved that Chiuri isn’t afraid to mix references.

Black and white checks and muted florals were mainstays throughout the collection and were complemented by a couture-like knack for lace and embroidery, seen especially on the flowing, romantic evening dresses that closed the collection. As always, Chirui’s accessories expertise took control in the form of structured bowling bags, keep all totes, and streamlined Mary Janes and platform boots.

Maria Grazia Chirui’s Dior is one of forward-thinking, thoughtful collaboration coupled with feminine interpretations of iconic house signatures. The Italian designer is no stranger to collaboration, and this season, that love centered itself on the concept of the past and the future.

Romantic, all-white column dresses juxtaposed with sleek leather motorcycle jackets and technical trenches created a welcomed tension that laid out a multi-faceted path forward for the French house.