Copenhagen Fashion Week Menswear Recap
VMAN’s Fashion Director Gro Curtis embarks on his first visit to Copenhagen Fashion Week and seals with a stamp of approval
My first visit to Copenhagen Fashion Week showed me how wrong I was when I perceived it solely as a showcase of minimalism. Yes, Danes are minimal but the nuances of their minimal signature are actually dedicated to convert maximalism. Menswear designers have shown a whole range of ideas ranging from purely technical to completely eccentric. We in fashion forget that a book should never be judged by its cover. Each book should be discovered in detail and carefully deciphered. In my process of decoding the Copenhagen menswear scene here are my favorite looks from stealer fashion week!
di(vision) Founded by brother and sister Simon and Nanna Wick; di(vision) is all about deconstruction and bringing a series of subcultural references together. One could find everything in a carefully composed mashup of references: from 70’s rock star silhouette to military quotations. My top favorite is a coat with almost vintage floral wallpaper vibes. Gently flared pants in 70’s style connect this whole look perfectly.
Holzweiler There is something irresistibly quirky about the new collection designed by Maria Skappel Holzweiler and Duy Dingh Ngo. Traveling was on their mind but consider this collection to be perfect for extremely chic rain traveling where you need more of gear than classical clothes. This subtly oversized look is a perfect example of their pastel rhapsody and eye for technical details.
Berner Kuhl With his first collection out this designer is a new face of Copenhagen fashion week. For Kuhl less is way more so the whole focus went into creating easy and accessible pieces intended for customers who enjoy wearing quiet but precisely made clothes. Even though the silhouette looks strictly minimal the tricks are hiding in fabrics and textures the designer is able to manipulate.
Han Kjobenhavn Jannik Wikkelso is the man behind this hot label with a certain underground flair and tangible smell of dark hallways of Berlin. His clothes are gender bending and emphasize on creating striking pieces which are able to work as your personal armour. Jannik is all about dramatic details and certain post-apocalyptic tailoring that belongs to the future. That same future may not be bright in a designer’s imagination but it guarantees you amazingly sharp tailoring.
Henrik Vibskov Henrik Vibskov is a legend when it comes to Danish menswear. His eccentric tailoring is both intellectual and vivid. Much of a focus when it comes to his new collection is on workwear. As Vibskov is a man of many talents, it doesn’t surprise the synergy of fashion, music and performance art when it comes to his shows. This illusive tailored look is definitely my favorite because it brings the allure of joy and print invitation to its potential owner.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan Tan is one of my favorite discoveries in Copenhagen. This designer is truly a master tailor with an exquisite background from houses such as Dior and Balenciaga. This oversized white shirt and apron look is possibly my most treasured look from Copenhagen. Tan rules over his collection seamlessly and unpretentiously. Every single detail is in his absolute control and the whole collection feels supremely polished and ready for the catwalk of Paris.
Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen How to create a successful but sustainable streetwear brand? Ask young Nikolaj Storm! His mission is to create the strongest possible pieces; such as this stunningly constructed oversized jacket using materials or leftover stock other designers would never think about. His collection was inspired by Victorian tea parties and techno underground culture. This specific jacket and hat are actually made from cork material. Talk about metamorphosis!
Jeppe Juel Jeppe Juel is a rising star of the Danish fashion scene. Collection of six looks created by Juel was showcased during The Royal Danish Academy fashion show. For Juel it’s all about using the human body to create a sculpture which becomes the extension of the body itself. Dark poetry presented by Juel is enchanting for any fashion-obsessed fan. This unique metamorphosis was demonstrated with use of black as a canvas which makes everything look even more ominous but seductive.
Milan Flicek One more menswear name you should remember from The Royal Danish Academy showcase is: Milan Flicek. This designer activist knows what he is doing with the message “stop burning clothes”. I’m a personal fan of this militant look with a stunning cargo-style jacket and backpack in the same fabric. Flicek has a certain styling audacity that works perfectly together and connects pieces of clothing that are not easy to put together but guided by his intuition everything works.