Since its prime, Courréges has remained an unsung hero of the fashion sphere – in an if you know, you know kind of je ne sais quoi that timeless Parisian brands often possess. However, last year, Courréges launched their always sold-out “Re-Edition” collection that re-released looks from their heyday, and in turn, the internet went wild. Vintage Courréges seemed to have a trending moment on TikTok, leading to a resurgence of the brand’s popularity, which had been slowly returning to the zeitgeist for the past few years. André Courréges’ first collection pioneered the vibe-shift towards futuristic, space-age fashion, much like the vibe-shift our own culture is moving towards today – we’ve been hearing a lot of talk about “doom-dressing” and the potential return of indie-sleaze.

“Vibe-shift” might just be the perfect descriptor for Nicolas di Felice’s Fall/Winter ‘22 show. Felice had already launched Re-edition. Celebrities such as Dua Lipa were already spotted in Courréges’ iconic candy-paint vinyl jacket, and the jacket even made an appearance on the trendsetting hit HBO show, Euphoria. Felice, still relatively new to the helm of Courréges, clearly knew he was responsible for producing even riskier, skin-baring and party-ready silhouettes this season in order to maintain the fashion house’s relevance.

It wouldn’t be Courréges if the show wasn’t defined by vinyl, ’60s and ’70s mod silhouettes, and mini skirts. The collection stays true to the brand’s unique space-age identity with 60’s goggles, structural outerwear and square-neck tops. But, this time, they’re crafted with a modern twist: the classic re-edition tank top was reworked with geometric diamanté cutouts, and the vinyl set now included a low-waisted micro mini skirt in the style of many other FW22 collections. Hemlines are shorter, cutouts are superfluous, and Courréges’ defining A-line mod look was even replaced (in some cases) with sleeker, even bodycon, silhouettes. 

For Felice, skin is definitely in. Kendall Jenner rocked her new orange mane on the runway, wearing a sleek black midi-length dress with waist cutouts. Vinyl was ever-present in multiple new formats: bodycon dresses, hotpants, and barely-there bikini tops. Long, lithe legs were adorned with over-the-knee riding boots, and collarbones took center stage with an abundance of sweetheart necklines. For Fall 2022, Felice both honors and subverts André Courréges – successfully.