While couture has forever been lauded for reaching exaggerated heights, fashion’s collective maestros demonstrate a renewed approach for the Spring/Summer ‘23 season, taking on statuesque proportions and transforming time-old Baroque inspirations with a contemporary flair. With some of the standout looks from the couture shows captured here by Solve Sundsbo for the pages of V142, the masterminds behind the pieces get candid on their inspirations for the collections.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE


Abeny wears bodysuit GIAMBATTISTA VALLI HAUTE COUTURE

“It’s not about Hollywood. It’s about socialites in Beverly Hills, something peaceful, something happy; an almost trippy atmosphere.” —Giambattista Valli,
Giambattista Valli Creative Director

VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE


All clothing VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE

DIOR HAUTE COUTURE

GUCCI HIGH JEWELRY


All high jewelry GUCCI

VIKTOR & ROLF HAUTE COUTURE


Dress VIKTOR & ROLF HAUTE COUTURE / All high jewelry MESSIKA PARIS

“This gown is one of the first sketches we created for our Late Stage Capitalism Waltz Haute Couture collection. Everything we ever did resonates in this collection. It’s our 30th year anniversary and this collection embodies this perfectly.” —Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, Viktor & Rolf Founders

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE


Dress CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE / All high jewelry CHANEL

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE


Dress JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE / All jewelry CARTIER

“[The Inspiration for the collection was] the purity of an ovoid amethyst gown.”—Haider Ackermann, Jean Paul Gaultier Courtier

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER HAUTE COUTURE


Jumpsuit ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER HAUTE COUTURE / All jewelry TIFFANY & CO.

“The idea was to have a rendering of the outfit as graphic as the sketch was. An eye-catch[ing] outfit with large shoulders, and a slender silhouette elongated as much as possible. We had to succeed in making the pants in a non-stretch material but with the same material aspect to not disturb the eye.” —Alexandre Vauthier, Alexandre Vauthier Creative Director

FENDI HAUTE COUTURE


Dress, gloves, earrings FENDI HAUTE COUTURE

“This season, I wanted to concentrate on the techniques and craft of couture,
with the lightness, fluidity, and attitude of today. It’s a celebration of the ateliers and the craftspeople who realize these garments, the intense work and emotional commitment to each piece that exists for both maker and wearer.
” —Kim Jones, FENDI Artistic Director (Couture and Womenswear)

DAVID YURMAN HIGH JEWELRY


Paco wears suit VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE / All high jewelry DAVID YURMAN

“The Floating Diamond Bangle is a refined abstraction of the iconic David Yurman Crossover collection, two strands of invisible-set diamonds intertwined, symbolizing unity and love.” —Lee Tucker, David Yurman Chief Merchant and Product Officer

ARMANI PRIVÉ


Dress and jewelry ARMANI PRIVÉ

“With my Spring/Summer 2023 couture show I wanted to explore light and color. The collection is a luminescent fantasy, made of elongated shapes, precious embroideries, delicate hues, and light silhouettes. The inspiration is a Venetian ball where dresses sparkle and seem to dance, where colors vibrate as if refracted through a prism, and where the surfaces are punctuated by harlequin-inspired diamond motifs. Everything is impalpable and glittering.” —Giorgio Armani, Armani Chief Executive and Chairman

BOUCHERON HIGH JEWELRY


All high jewelry BOUCHERON

“With over 20 creatures from the animal kingdom, each with its own symbolism, Boucheron’s bestiary is the most iconic of Place Vendôme. I love animals myself because they [evoke] virtues, character traits, and values. That’s why I am always very excited about enriching our Animaux de Collection with new jeweled interpretations, bursting with life and emotion. These exclusive companions become precious totems when mounted on a ring, a necklace, a brooch, or earrings.” —Claire Choisne, Boucheron Creative Director

This story appears in the pages of V142: now available for purchase!

Photography Sølve Sundsbø 

Fashion Gro Curtis

Makeup Stéphane Marais

Hair Laurent Philippon (Bryant Artists)

Models Abény Nhial (Elite), Paco Diouf (Next)

Dancers Mikhail Tsinchenko (Studio Paris Model Mgmt), Emma Spinosi (Fashion Composers)
Manicure Typhaine Kersual (Artists Unit)

Production Sally Dawson, Paula Ekenger

Digital technician Lucie Rowan

Photo assistants Sebastian Kapfhammer, Michael O Williams, Matt Davies, Louis Dumetz

Stylist assistant Liana Sipos

Makeup assistant Elisa Verdon

Hair assistants Michael Thanh Bui, Sammy Cindy Boyode

Retouching Digital Light LTD 

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