Sacai founder Chitose Abe has become established for her multi-dimensional designs after working as pattern cutter under Rei Kawakubo and later as a designer for Junya Watanabe. After debuting at Paris Fashion Week in 2009, Sacai has often returned to showcase a fusion of Tokyo street style with Parisian chic. This time, their show appropriately took place at Paris’s Palais de Tokyo, which is dedicated to modern and contemporary art. The tunnel-like basement entrance evoked a suspenseful mood that continued to play out as attendees waited in a dimly lit room.

The show featured models including Kaia Gerber and Binx Walton wearing a wide range of layered outerwear made out of thick materials like knit, faux fur, wool, and denim. MA-1 jackets were cut and spliced with argyle knits. Layers and rearrangements were in abundance, including a white shirt weaved into a raincoat. Sacai’s roots were also seen through knits interweaved with zippers.

Abe’s inspiration for layering came from her own youth when she layered button-down shirts over vintage dresses, and Jackson Pollock-inspired drip paint was printed on coats and boots.

Parisian jeweler Charlotte Chesnais designed the single piece of jewelry seen on the runway. The gold sculptural cuff circled ears while sunglasses by Tokyo-based brand Native Sons was consistently seen on models throughout the show.

Abe’s talents have allowed Sacai to become established as a brand well known for technical ability. Her pieces have attracted over 90 international stockists, many of them choosing Sacai as their sole Japanese brand to carry. The brand has also collaborated with Nike, Ambush, Hender Scheme, and most recently, Beats by Dr. Dre.

Having complete creative control at Sacai has allowed Abe the freedom to build collections as she pleases, and what she wants is to reflect the multidimensionality of women. She does so by creating layers and spliced garments that reflect such an essence. The result is a sense of femininity that can only be found in the unconventional 21^st century.