What does it take for a moment to go viral? For Julius Juul, the creative director behind Heliot Emil, all it took was a professional stuntman wrapped in flames, strutting down the runway. While the intentionality was more purpose than production (the stunt gave models time to change looks) the moment still made rounds on Instagram, bringing widened eyes to the Danish brand’s ‘Connected Forms’ show.  

This collection marks the label’s third season in Paris and was inspired by the sculptural works of British artist Henry Moore. Each look questions traditional shapes and formats, molding into clothes that border on art pieces – sculptures, in their own right. 

Similar to Moore’s constructions of large, bronze sculptures, Juul shapes his own fabrics through extensive tear, heat and water. 

Zippers curve every which way, shapes are blown out of proportion, sections of jackets and pants rip away, leaving entirely new pieces in their wake. Easy removability and attachment of the garments nods to the idea of convertible clothing, a concept well-loved by the Danish designer.

As a whole, the collection is unapologetically dark, and to some, dystopian. Male models sported dark full-face balaclavas that – albeit intriguing – held the ability to frighten. A single strip of fabric, fastened along the chest, served as a bra-slash-top, while haphazardly unzipped jackets suggest a utilitarian vibe. 

In collaboration with artists Mirko Zambelli and Stefano Cornalli, Juul created an audio track specifically for the show, in keeping with Heliot Emil’s continuous explorations into sound. At the show, the auditory manifestation of the Fall-Winter 2023 collection played, blending musical notes with the designs on the runway.