Glenn Marten hasn’t taken his foot off the pedal since taking over as Diesel’s creative director at the end of 2020. Collection after collection, it seems like Marten finds endless inspiration to fuel his Diesel fire.

This spring-summer 23 collection was no different.

The show opened with denim, of course, and saw models walking under and around a giant kama-sutra inflatable, which was deemed at the show to be the most giant inflatable sculpture ever by Guinness World Records.

However, the sculpture wasn’t the only racy part of the collection; upon the announcement of the show, Diesel sent out glass buttplugs as invitations to its guest.

The provocative invitation and inflatable were echoed in the attire of the models. Martens used denim to show themes of experimentation and subversion in the all-gender collection.

Experimentation was shown in the ways Martens used denim in new and exciting ways. Like using frayed denim to appear as fur-like frill on certain pieces or using distressed denim to become a mesh-like material on others.

Martens explained this experimentation as “pieces trimmed with raw denim and totally distressed denim held together by stitching lines to bring control to the destruction.”

The show was also ripe with the theme of subversion. The entire show can see influences of the larger subversive basics trend, just told through the lens of denim and leather.

There is the showstopping look modeled by Alton Mason, which took the ‘small shirt, big pants’ motif and amplified it with oversized jeans that also had oversized and distressed trim.

That same idea from those pants was also applied to a fully leather biker look which saw the oversized and distressed trim make its way up through the jacket as well.

One recurring material throughout the show was acid wash denim. Martens debuted acid wash bras, dresses, jackets, tops, and pants on this season’s runway.

Emulating a more popular resurgence of early 2010’s style, regularly called ‘indie-sleaze’ online.

We also saw some of these looks debuted on the stars in attendance.

Evan Mock was dressed in a denim jacket and heavily distressed denim pants. Julia Fox wore a stunning blue leather jacket and mini skirt with her signature eyeliner. Plus, Normani wore a heavily distressed denim set with a perfectly matching yellow purse.

This collection is already shaping up to be another viral sensation from Diesel. Followers on social media have already been drooling over some of the pieces. Most notably, the new iterations of the mini belt-skirt and the 1DR bag.

In conclusion, whatever Glen Martens is putting in the fuel tank at Diesel, he should keep doing it. The brand has never been better, and with him as creative director, it shows little signs of losing momentum.

Watch the full collection below: