In Glenn Martens’ debut show, the new creative director encapsulates what we loved about Diesel in its prime – maximalist distressed denim, low rise paired with dramatic crop tops, and utility *somehow* made sexy. Once the paragon of 90’s coolness, Diesel disappeared from the cultural sphere in the 2000s – but Glenn Martens (designer of Y/Project) knows how to incite 90s nostalgia for the many die-hard fans of Diesel at its prime.

Designers have favored daring maximalism and skin-baring silhouettes since the re-opening of restaurants and bars, but Diesel’s F/W ‘22 collection incites a more exciting kind of hedonism – the runway return of casual nightclub-wear.

For all who fear this infamous trend, it’s confirmed: low rise is here to stay for another season. The collection features belly-button baring micro mini skirts, low-slung belts, and the quintessential 90s low-rise baggy trouser on both male and female models. In true Diesel fashion, the denim is decorated and bedazzled with dramatic distressing, an abundance of zippers, near-excessive (yet totally covetable) belting, and biker detailing at the knees. Acid wash took center stage, with Martens himself wearing a washed black canadian tuxedo.

The collection is divided into four chapters: denim, utility, pop and artisanal. Within all chapters, dramatic draping is indispensable and the dichotomy of pastel blues and gritty distressing are key. The utility chapter features unstructured yet sculptural oversized workwear jackets and trench coats. In the same vein, the artisanal chapter debuts the return of flowy organza and chiffon skirts and dresses, which are revealing yet still elusive in a Kate Moss-esque fashion. Looks were accessorized with pastel lace tights, another indie favorite.

The pop chapter confirms the return of the screenprint style we’ve been seeing all over Depop and TikTok for the past few months, with trompe l’oeil printed pieces on both men and women. The partywear features jewel tones and even more metallic micro-mini sets, accessorized with the tried-and-true 90’s shoulder bags of the past year. 

However, Diesel’s return isn’t without a new sense of environmental awareness. According to the show’s press release, this collection is the first featuring fully recycled denim, cotton and elastane and dyed without water. It also features a climate-positive new line, Diesel Rehab Denim, created with upcycled scraps.

Nightclub lovers, rejoice – Diesel is back and better than ever, just in time for your return to debauchery. “It’s pure Diesel – you need to put it on in two seconds and live your life,” said Martens himself.