Dion Lee has become one of New York’s hottest designers, known for his ultra-sexy designs that are synonymous with the downtown in-crowd. His presentation for Fall 2023 was an elaboration of his core design language, modeled after the concept of a snake shedding its skin. Titled “Second Skin,” the presentation focused on this idea of transformation through an emphasis on unraveling. 

This concept of unraveling is most explicit in, well, quite a bit of unraveling. One could argue that unraveling could equate to a simple revealing of the skin, yet Lee takes this conceptual treatment a step further. Denim has been shredded to bits, draped horizontal boning makes for garments that are designed to reveal, and embellishments have been warped into a sort of distorted fringe detailing on mini dresses. 

Snakeskin is used as the hero pattern throughout the collection, yet is emboldened by its subversive materiality. Layered fishnets felt reflective of the serpent spirit, with Lee breathing a new energy into the classic sultry hosiery. Leather bandeaus, trousers, and itty-bitty party dresses were treated with punched diamond eyelets, while in other looks shibori dyeing techniques were utilized as a reflection of snakeskin. What may have been most intriguing texturally was the presentation of wetsuit materials that have been distressed in a pattern to reflect the snake, almost utilitarian in their materialization yet delicate in the treatment of said fabric.

While the concept of a second skin implies the act of unraveling, it also hints at a sense of transformation; the process of revealing, the implication of dual identities. This duality felt most pertinent in the translucent inflated outerwear. Conceptually, these puffers deliver the message of revealing what hides beneath a thicker outer skin, while practically, they offer the wearer the opportunity to show off their going out fits while adding a layer of warmth. It’s here in this balance between concept and function where Lee proves himself as an ultimately clever designer.

Dion Lee brings a complexity to what could otherwise be known as the rudimentary going-out wardrobe; there is both a consistent utilitarian grit as well as a delicate sense of sexuality that the pieces are rooted in. This balance is where Lee truly speaks to his ability to enchant the New York in-crowd, where sexy clothing and intellectual clothing are not mutually exclusive. There is a massive host of options when it comes to finding the perfect look for a grand night out, yet Lee proves himself as the forerunner in that each piece that is tailor-made for the club is simultaneously imbued with dignity.