Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 is a Delicate Embrace

Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 is a Delicate Embrace

Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 is a Delicate Embrace

Multi-talented artist Josephine Baker becomes Dior's muse

Multi-talented artist Josephine Baker becomes Dior's muse

Text: Anna Montagner

Wrapped up in a scenographic display of images, created by multidisciplinary artist Mickalene Thomas, Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 Collection celebrates black and mixed-race women who have left indelible marks in history by choosing to think and act differently. From singer and dancer Eartha Kitt to actress Dorothy Dandridge, to singer Nina Simone, these are only a few of the iconic muses of Dior’s Spring-Summer 2023 Collection. 

Image Courtesy of Adrien Dirand

“These women have broken many barriers in television, film, fashion and social activism. It is because of their determination and sacrifices that I am able to make this work and be the artist I am today,” says Thomas.

Above all, multi-talented performer and activist Josephine Baker seems to be the main inspiration behind Chiuri’s see-through embroidery, delicate velvet, and festive fringes. 

Favoring sheath silhouettes over voluminous gowns, and sheer fabrics over tartan patterns, Chiuri seems to have stepped away from the romantic vibes of last year’s show and rather decided to surprise us with softer (perhaps gentler) tones. With clean lines that brings us back to Christian Dior’s signature style, Chiuri seems to have almost jumped into the realm of minimalism – and yet, without leaving the Maison’s feminine essence behind.

The show began with a set of double-breasted tailleurs and black coats, some of which were left open to reveal the satin lingerie or glossy cream blouses underneath. They were followed by lighter shades, with white pleated skirts, subtly puffed sleeves, and dresses embellished with beads and paillettes.

Throughout the runway show, Chiuri often brings us back to Baker, Simone, and
all the other Dior muses, and their passionate lives on stage. Transparent skirts with lateral slits remind us of the levity of dance, while long silk and velvet dresses in hues of silver and acid green remind us of the divas of the 50s. The gowns glide over the bodies and caress them. Finally, what’s not to love about the sparkling fringes that cheerfully move as the model walks down the runway, taking us back to the glamorous flapper dress of the 1920s, and letting us dream of merry dancefloors.

For Maria Grazia Chiuri, haute couture is a body-manifesto. Her dialogue with artist Mickalene Thomas reminds us that haute couture encapsulates the essence of fashion and its power: to break barriers and become a radical gesture of awareness.

Credits: Thumbnail Image by Adrien Dirand courtesy of DIOR.

UP NEXT

Lions, tigers, and—Schiaparelli? Oh my!
This season the mastermind behind the revival of the iconic brand polarizes the romantic hues and shapes of the garden as we enter the nine circles of hell.