Dramatization Meets The Evocation Of Summer: Jacquemus’ Spring Summer 2023 Collection

“Le Raphia” sets house codes anew, summoning the sensations of summer and the return of an artisanal spirit

Descending like rain, casting shadows over all, a powerful sun emits light from behind an all-consuming curtain. Set amidst a commune in the suburbs of Paris, France, Le Bourget, Jacqeumus’ Spring Summer 2023 collection punctuated an open-ended evocation of summer and impressions of Southern escapes. Suspending a zeitgeist of wall-to-wall sensuality, “Le Raphia” channeled summer sensations in tandem with a return to an artisanal spirit. Much like Simon Jacquemus’ previous debuts, the backdrop prompted a trompe l’oeil simplicity fused with a natural poeticism, producing a free-spirited wardrobe that stands out for its embrace of contemporary craft.

In fluid silhouettes and poetic oversized chapeaux, the collection enveloped the core of Jacquemus’s house codes. Here audiences observe the designer’s protruding obsession resurface and play out in multiple themes, each as a trio of men’s and women’s looks that convey a sensual contrast of drama and ease. Hand-embroidered by Maison Lesage, raffia fibers utilize the nature of savoir-faire. Left raw and applied for shaggy volume – as strands laced into jeans cascading from bags and carpeting the underfoot of shoes.

Crafted using archival techniques, dimensional textures and shapes merge with natural materials exuding a delicate, artisanal palette. Within the house’s transportive staging, the beach can be found through the draped body-skimming – bikinis meet day-to-night dresses, and men’s tank tops are adorned with embroidered accents. Denim treatments introduce a youthful counterpoint, where vibrant ensembles and silver-coated jeans take a cue from the early 2000s.

Spotted in loops of tonal grosgrain defining the décolleté, miniature tassels staggered across the see-through mesh, matte sequins in colorful spirals, le rond carré embroideries glinting from knits, and large marble beads are Jacquemus’ signature embellishments. This season marks the debut of Le Bisou, a slim and curvy bag that can be worn on the shoulder and in hand. Proposed in a Jacquemus palette of vivid and softened tones, the bag arrives in several animations.

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