Telling stories is as natural as breathing, an innate way we connect and express ourselves. For Dries Van Noten’s final show, the designer doesn’t replay his biggest hits but forges new ones.

Dries Van Noten’s journey began with his first Paris runway show in 1991, and on June 22, 2024, he presented his last. At the age of 66, Van Noten has decided to step down from daily creative direction to embrace a new phase of life—though he will continue to advise his design teams from afar. This announcement, prior to the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show—an unusual move by industry standards—is being interpreted as the designer bidding farewell, not unlike a celebratory send-off. 

Van Noten’s designs beg us to look beneath the surface. He uses Organza, a sheer fabric that highlights clothing—or lack thereof—underneath. Lightweight parachute cotton and silk pongee interplay between matte and sheer textures. Snake patterns are featured on leather and jersey; one-sided foil shifts between silver and gold.

Embellishments mirror fragments of memories, clustered in various forms. Reminiscent of Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2016 menswear show, gold is embroidered on blue tailored pieces. 

Suminagashi, a Japanese “floating ink” technique, is featured on cropped bomber jackets and blazers. This traditional marbling technique involves ink patterned on water, transferred to fabric. Each piece, with its unique imperfections, stands alone. 

From neutrals and pastels to vivid accords, Van Noten’s collection has a variety of hues. Tonal grays ground the collection, while pastels are featured across the Organza and suminagashi techniques. Mohair car coats and textured cardigans command attention in pink, green, and orange.

Each garment has the ability to move through life with us, gathering our stories, carrying us forward. The 150th collection is not an end but a new beginning for Dries Van Noten.