Emilia Wickstead’s Autumn Winter ‘25 collection took flight on the English runways of London Fashion Week, paying homage to the culturally iconic 1963 horror film, The Birds.
While generally, the initial conversation surrounds its brilliant direction from the iconic Alfred Hitchcock, this collection is an ode to the feminine composition of the film. The designs carry inspiration from the leading women, both in front of the camera and behind the scenes, who make up the movie’s blueprint.
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Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
A chartreuse ‘birds eye’ suit directly references The Birds star, Tippi Hedren’s striking ‘60s green suit, and her entire intrinsic cinematic performance. Sculptural scenes of pistachio green, billowed fabrics with a dramatic fall, and distinctive tight tailoring are rooted in the actress’s looks through the unforgettable tailoring of costume designer Edith Head.
Head’s influence is everlasting. Following the intention and inspiration of her designs, the movie’s characters bestow a new life through the playfully sincere detail of each of the collection’s pieces: sharp-shouldered tailoring, grandiose curvaceous shapes, pops of terrifying red, and pointed triangular collars folded upward to mimic the flap of a wing.
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Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead
As the epicenter of the film, Daphne du Maurier’s writing mastery and her knack for creating atmospheric tension are played out through roaring and opposing colors—deep cobalt blue, vivacious purple, and saturated turquoise.
The AW25 collection omits a stark visual carrying over the aesthetics of the film while embodying an attitude of poise and vulnerability. Feminine leadership is the heart of the film’s construction; thus, the legacy of Edith Head, Tippi Hedren, and Daphne du Maurier persists through the runway of Emilia Wickstead this season.
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