An emo dream, Creative Director Henri Levy’s Spring/Summer 2022 Paris Fashion Week collection for Enfants Riches Déprimés masterfully connects the dark with the emotional à la leather, lace lining, and graphics galore. Set at L’École de Médecine, the show embraces contradictions without sacrificing clean lines and structured garments. The collection tells a story, with a clear punk rock vibe and edgy mood. Fine tailoring and a few staple pieces—like blazers, leather jackets, and wide-leg trousers—in conjunction with an array of grunge accessories from laced up biker boots to metal and leather collar necklaces, make for a wardrobe full of attitude and taste. 

 

 

The color scheme—various shades of black, dark blue, and deep red—perfectly sets the scene for an angular trench coat embellished with a silver metal chain, a leather apron dress atop a maroon pinstripe button-up, and a leather on leather biker jacket meets biker pants combo set. The mix of textures and fabrics creates dimension and intrigue, to make a subtle yet impactful statement. Loose fitting jogger pants, oversized trousers, and a flowing sweater vest feel practical for the every-day, and one can easily envision these items at an indie concert or a quick coffee rendez-vous. 

 

Mini dresses—in leather, with cutout straps, or sheer babydoll style—exude an air of sensuality and romantic emotion. In toying with the sweet and the edgy, the collection embraces opposition and artful craftsmanship, with fine lace bodice accents, angular slits and lines, and silver metal embellishments. 

 

 

To further depict this grunge tale, graphic prints don t-shirts and trousers alike. In bright red or a contrasting white, the designs make an otherwise minimalist piece a statement item. One line begs the question, “Sick of it all?” while another embroiders in handwritten style “ERD” on the collar of a babydoll dress. A sheer floral printed button-up shirt is another welcome contradiction, a sublime blending of styles. Levy creates an expressive and emotive collection apt for the reemergence and re-embrace of those emo days past, with structured tailoring fit for the contemporary dresser.