Ennio Capasa’s latest collection recently debuted at Milan Fashion Week. Its location: a contemporary theater well recognized for its shows. The collection highlights unconventional tailoring styles which feature laser-cut and and heat-sealed methodologies. This approach takes influence from sportswear and are further augmented via sartorial interventions on the articles’ sleeves or lapels. Its color palette includes a combination of darker grey, black, and green hues accompanied by tinges of bright emeralds and reds. The collection’s fabrics entail shantung material, animal print jacquards, eco-nylon taffeta, and washed cashmere to name a few.

“I have always worked with the desire to break the boundaries between formal and informal, between day and night, against considering gender as a convention,” Ennio Capasa shares in a press statement to V. “All the items presented in this collection are genderless and can be purchased in a wide range of sizes. The suits are worn with skirts or trousers, or with both, sportswear with bare legs and dresses with trousers, often fluid.” Its footwear involves a Capasa for earth horn sculptured detail created in Buccio, Italy with a layer of leather that canvases its heel, raw cut ankle boots, and more all produced and distributed by HIMCO. The collection’s jewelry encompasses genderless and fluid jewels comprised of ethical silver and gold, and Tahiti blue pearls derived from sustainable systems. These accessories were conceptualized by Capasa as part of his parternship with futuroRemoto’s Gianni De Benedittis.

Capasa further describes the collection’s creative process amounting to the final product. “I worked on individuality. Each interpreter of the show has a personal attitude, tells a story about him. With make-up, hairstyle, jewelry, or the garment itself [it’s] creatively customized but without excessive styling. The prints and jacquards represent animals from my original drawings and paintings dedicated to safeguarding the CAPSA for earth ecosystem. In some cases, they have been “hacked” by my staff, printed by fluorescent patches applied to blazers or jackets. The materials and manufacturing are sourced according to the main criteria of environmental and social sustainability. I have often applied circular economy criteria to my creations and events in the past. The venue was dressed using only materials and furniture already presented in the theater.”

Explore Ennio Capasa’s full Fall 2022 collection and show below.