Enfants Riches Déprimés – yes, that is “depressed rich kids” in English – indulged in a leather-powered race down the runway, for its Fall 2023 collection. Brimming with versatility and simultaneously, cohesion, the collection was creative director Henri Levy’s expression of parallels – whether it be in character or in clothing. 

Meeting the déprimés-aesthetic of ERD, the concept alluded to aesthetic German gloom with a touch of Soviet undertones, nodding to the sense of darkness that is characteristic of the label. 

The show opened with an all-leather ensemble in bright lipstick red, applying pressure from the start. The color motif continues throughout the collection; a pair of floppy pants, a military-esque suit, a fur-embossed overcoat. As a whole, the palette is dark, sinister – shall I say – depressed? 

Contrasting fabrics intermingle on the runway, a touch of elegance followed by a tinge of rawness. Here we have a brand for the refined – these are the rich kids after all –  and yet, something about the pieces is still rough, rugged and rocky in places. Delicate and whisper-like undergarments meet strong-cut denim. Softness and hardness. 

While the iterations of this season’s silhouettes may be new and inspired, the collection remains at its core, Enfants Riches Déprimés.