Erdem, a brand known for its modern take on femininity, presented their Spring Summer 2027 show in London. The show was dedicated to Barbette, a star of the trapeze in the 1920s. Barbette was known for an illusionary performance, where the star transformed between masculine and feminine. Barbette’s fame grew after he moved to Paris and became the muse of Jean Cocteau. Inspired by the fluid movement between gender and appreciation of the spectacle, Erdem named Barbette as their own muse and delivered a collection suited for the spotlight. 

The show opened with a look that set the tone. A tuxedo style blazer over a white button down and bedazzled hot shorts. It looked somewhat like a circus ringleader, but with an elegant reconstructed energy. Next came a series of looks that each included elements central to the collection. Lace motifs, patent leather loafers, crystal embellished florals. A collection of three bejeweled dresses landed in a row, a chic and youthful trio. The runway begins to be enveloped with color, from cherry red to butter yellow, olive to seafoam green. Bodysuits are paired with trench coats putting bare legs on full display. 

The collection returns to neutral tones at the tailend of the show. Many of the looks include feathers, adding volume and movement to the pieces. The show concluded with a feminine look followed by a traditionally masculine look to finish. This series mirrors Barbette’s famed performance. It’s a full dedication to the story and artistry of Barbette, along with a study into the multidimensionality of beauty and femininity.