Erdem Fall 2020

Erdem Fall 2020

Erdem took over London’s National Portrait Gallery for Fall 2020. 

Erdem took over London’s National Portrait Gallery for Fall 2020. 

Photography: Schohaja

Text: Paul Madley

The British based label presented it's latest collection at London's National Portrait Gallery. An iconic institution that houses some of the world's most beautiful paintings and has been home to some world class exhibitions. 

Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by the gallery's upcoming exhibition that's dedicated to the legendary fashion photographer Cecil Beaton. He was particularly interested in Beaton's early experiments, photographing his sisters at home with makeshift backdrops. “It spoke to me, because in his early years he created who he would become. He wasn’t born into that family of aristocracy. He wasn’t a socialite; he was a middle-class kid with parents who had boring middle-class backgrounds,” said Moralioglu. “It reminded me of how I photographed my sister, Sara, up against the wall in our basement, with a disposable camera, and then had those pictures printed to make up my portfolio application for Ryerson University.”

The signature Erdem floral prints/embroidery were in full bloom but on this occasion they were particularly demure. Night-time florals that were flirtatious, pretty and romantic were presented in a subtle way. It was a gesture of sexiness that created the appeal. Erdem played with texture and transparency, pearls, brocade, and lace featured throughout. We saw a mix of knits and exaggerated neck bows presented with modern evening dresses. Some dresses had the air of the 1940s, with bias-cut floral prints and wide shoulders. Other silhouettes on the runway were a dropped waist, typical of the 1920s (Beaton’s heyday) and the models hair were styled into disheveled finger waves. We also saw tailored suits, easy coats and necklines trimmed with ruffles. 

Other great moments came from a tissue lamé and silver lace dress, Pierrot pajama suit and black-and-white checkerboard prints. Their collection was an echo of the celluloid frills and fancy-dress (a strong theme in Beaton’s work). It was a contemporary collection influenced by the past.

Take a look at the standout moments from the show in the slideshow below. 

Credits: Images courtesy or Erdem

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