The world of Erdem, created by designer Erdem Moralioğlu, is meant to inspire confidence and passion, all while telling a story. Behind every printed dress, men’s style suit and black sequin details in Erdem’s Fall/Winter 22 collection is a hidden message. This message, all about exploring fluidity and expression, highlights an important time where comfort and identity was found in dancing lights, ornate fashion and beautiful strangers.

A period of “dissolving boundaries and subverting conventions,” Erdem takes a closer look at Berlin in the 1930s, specifically its nightlife. The city’s underground clubs at this time, when the world was amidst a war, were a sanctuary for experimentation, just as much as they were for entertainment. Like its guests, these clubs were full of energy, sensuality and electricity, and opened its doors for everyone. 

Taking part in Berlin’s nightlife were a band of female artists and photographers: Jeanne Mammen, Madame d’Ora, Elfriede Lohse-Wächtler, Anita Berber and Valeska Gert. Each “pioneered a particular vein of avant-garde expression,” embracing fringe culture at its full capacity. They were not just performers nor passive observers. They were active participants and role models for breaking and exploring notions of gender, sexuality, identity and expression. Much as they were for Berlin’s culture, these women are now the muses behind Moralioğlu’s newest collection. 

The collection honors these women and the period through exploring the bittersweetness of the clubs. Although the clubs were a safe space, the outside world wasn’t as much. But in those clubs, it was all about the present moment, and the sensation you’d feel with the music. With this in mind, FW22 juxtaposes daywear and eveningwear, womenswear and menswear, formal and casual clothing to represent the mood and spirit of the clubs. The color palette of the collection, although dark in scheme, at least, compared to Erdem’s previous collections, embodies sexuality and glamor. Adding to this, FW22 utilizes lace, sequins and other poetic details that not only move with the body, but enhance the silhouette. It mixes femininity and masculinity, thanks to the variety of floor-length gowns and fitted blazers, all while embracing the timelessness of 1930s fashion. Overall, the collection perfectly captures the meaning of fluidity, and the awe-inspiring stories of five powerful women. 

View Erdem’s FW22 collection below.