When you think of the word “radical,” your mind typically goes to extremes: bold, unconventional ideas, and boundary-pushing innovations. The things that no one has done before, or even thought to do. Etro’s Fall/Winter 2023 womenswear collection, titled “Radical,” doesn’t match this definition. It employs endless callbacks and references to the house’s history, centering classic patterns like paisley and cravatteria motifs. On the surface, it’s as conventional as a collection could be—but a closer analysis reveals the name is no misnomer.

Fans of Latin, etymology, and mathematics will recognize the kind of “radical” Etro is referencing. Despite its modern connotations, the term radical comes from the Late Latin word “radicalis,” or root. Rather than initiating a sweeping change in Etro’s branding, Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo uses the “Radical” collection as a chance to go back to the house’s roots. By incorporating the most recognizable artifacts of its past, the collection reconstructs Etro’s history and, in doing so, offers a new perspective on the house’s identity.

Founded during a radical era of history—1968, to be exact—Etro has an extensive legacy to look back upon. De Vincenzo narrows in on the house’s quintessential elements from the last half-century, the ones that have become synonymous with Etro. The iconic paisley pattern decorates long, flowing dresses and ruffled midi skirts, as well as gleaming silver and polka-dotted suiting; floral appliques add texture to leather jackets and matching trousers; tartan scarves and blankets become the stars of several looks. In the realm of accessories, the house’s Aladdin clogs are turned into boots, while bags take on an artisanal feel thanks to precise, laser-cut details. The color palette is soft, full of muted and earthy tones disrupted by the occasional flash of yellow.

The collection’s psychedelic prairie-chic vibe is infused with luxurious Italian glamor. Floor-length quilted coats hide colorful bursts of flora. Deep-V necklines on dresses allow chunky gold chokers and chains to stand out. There’s an abundance of knitwear that pulls off the rare feat of looking cozy and sensual, whether in the form of smart vests or clingy, second-skin dresses. Lacey tiers on skirts and dresses generate an evocative effect. In the mix, too, are more masculine styles, tailored coats and suiting that speak to the house’s ‘70s emergence. Charming details provide continuity throughout, including an effluence of pussycat bows and fringe.

With “Radical,” Etro’s history is revisited and refreshed for 2023. Each of the collection’s 58 looks presents a different element of intrigue. There’s always something new to fawn over, whether because of an appeal to nostalgia or a transformation of the familiar into the unfamiliar—an old pattern on a different garment, a creative twist on a classic silhouette. De Vincenzo proves that the past is not stale. It is meant to be rediscovered and admired anew.