After a year and a half in forced hibernation, it was finally time to get out of my sweatpants and slide into a black suit not just to attend but also to celebrate the possibility of a better future for fashion. When I say better I honestly do mean that because all of us, designers included, had some much time on our hands to think about what is truly important and how can we make our industry matter in these muddy waters of our era. Milan menswear fashion week was our first step into “new normal”. Because shows and showroom presentations were kept small when it comes to guests, the great thing that emerged under the spotlight was how warm and human the whole experience felt.

Mind you in the pre-Covid era shows were often too big with often 800 to 1000 guests and it was almost impossible to actually talk with the designers at backstage. Everything was overwhelming. But this time around, I really had time to sit down and talk with most of the designers in Milan. From newcomers to legends; everyone was open to conversation. Most importantly everyone had time to talk and that made such a significant difference. The connection between the press and designers got lost when shows started to become bigger and social media influencers started to dominate the fashion public stage. Ask any of my colleagues, they will tell you how difficult it was to get even ten minutes face-to-face with a designer. Milan brought us together and never did we feel more connected with creative directors or CEOs who are usually closely guarded by an army of PR reps and assistants. Milan also showed that intimate shows under epidemiological rules are possible and equally effective. Actually, they became so effective that we cherish them even more now. So here is a little recap of my Milan adventure!

ARMANI INVITE

Mr. Armani is the king of Milan and guardian of fashion in general so the news about his first physical show with the live audience since this pandemic nightmare was greeted with unique optimism. Just like so many Italian designers, Mr. Armani and his team know how to showcase a warm welcome. This time his invitation came with a personal note from Emperor himself. No wonder I have decided to wear a t-shirt with his print for the show. 

ITALIANS DO IT BETTER

You can’t talk about Milan without avoiding the subject of food. Italians simply do it better. Even though juicy meals packed with carbs are not ideal case scenario days before the official beginning of the summer––who cares? Add an Aperol Spritz to perfect cacio e pepe risotto and you will forget all about your beach body. 

NEW NORMAL

Yes. Covid-19 is still omnipresent. But many fashion houses did everything in their power to keep all of us as safe as possible. Proof? Before visiting Glenn Martnes for a walk through his newest Diesel collection, all the editors had to be tested at the very entrance. It’s simply a part of a new reality. 

LONG LIVE THE TAILORING

There is a very special thing about Italian fashion that always leaves me speechless. The craftsmanship and tradition that goes into creating items of clothing that are timeless. Canali, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, and Brioni are just some of the iconic brands that serve the most classic fashion with the most irresistible chic. Milan reminded me who important tailoring is when it comes to menswear. Case in point: brilliant collection by Brunello. 

GUCCI’s 100

Gucci’s 100th anniversary is of extreme importance for our industry. It showcases a brand can evolve through decades (and different creative directors) and still stay relevant for the new generation. I used my Milan trip to visit a vastly special collection dedicated just to the anniversary. While walking me through so many pieces of clothing and accessories, PR told me they did research about how many times “Gucci” was mentioned song lyrics around the world. Guess how many? Over 30,000 times! No wonder so much of the collection was dedicated to the world of music. 

DOLCE DELIGHT

Dolce & Gabbana was my first live show in over a year. It was strange to be there. It was bizarre to see the audience with masks but it was wonderful to witness the power of shows again. Of course, shows are much, much smaller than before and with serious distance in between seats, but magic was still there. 

COCKTAIL UNDER THE STARS

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is a true hero of this fashion week. Despite all odds, they’ve managed to organize a seamless experience for all of us international editors who flew to Milan. The opening cocktail was full of laughter and yet again, optimism, since it was otherworldly to see all of my colleagues from New York, Madrid, Paris and so many other cities doing what we do best: celebrating fashion. 

ZEGNA’S SPELL

One of the highlights of Milan shows was the new Ermenegildo Zegna collection orchestrated by amazing Alessandro Sartori. The lightness of tailoring, the sophistication of fabrics, and obsessive attention to detail made this Zegna collection particularly strong. And of course, it was a pleasure when the designer himself walks you through the whole collection.

TRIUMPH OF ETRO

Etro by Kean Etro was one of the few live shows with an audience. Even though it was scheduled at noon under the merciless sun, I enjoyed seeing this collection packed with ’70s references, psychedelic colours and prints only Etro can manufacture. Bravo to Kean and his amazing team!

PRADA EXPERIENCE 

Even though Prada didn’t organize a live show it seems to me they broke the code when it comes to merging digital + physical. All of us in fashion are tired of looking at our screens and trying to figure out the video show. After one point, each video tends to look the same no matter what technical tricks the director is using. Prada did the smartest thing: they’ve organized a screening of the show for selected members of the press and immediately after, we could actually see the full looks on mannequins IRL. After that, we were invited for sit-down lunch at Torre restaurant where we could chat more about the collection we just saw. So this wasn’t just a digital experience. It felt alive. And I could do what we all love to do in fashion: talk amongst each other about what we saw. 

CHURCH OF ARMANI

Mr. Armani organized a show for an audience of 80 guests in the courtyard of his private home. This was the address where some of the earliest and also legendary Armani shows were hosted. I must confess this was the most emotional part of Milan menswear fashion week. You could see the 86-year-old icon himself still commanding his vast empire with the precision and energy of someone who is just starting to leave their imprint. The show was followed by an intimate dinner at his Nobu restaurant. A night to remember!

FUTURE IS NEXT

The best way to close the first live menswear fashion week in season? Focusing on the future! Camera Moda partnered with White Sustainable Milan organization on the “Sustainable Evolution” showcase at the Fondazione Sozzani. As Mr. Capasa, president of Camera Moda, told me: “We need an incubator for young minds who present a new way of thinking in fashion”. These collections were practically homemade, and designers are using 100% organic certified cotton, discarded production scraps, or fabrics made from recycled ocean plastic. My three favorite names for all of us to watch? KIDS OF BROKEN FUTURE, GIN SALEMO, and SIMON CRACKER.