Everyone’s favorite non-profit talent incubator, Fashion East, is celebrating 20 years of showcasing emerging designers during London Fashion Week. Kim Jones, JW Anderson, Martine Rose, and Simone Rocha are among some of their most successful alumni from over the years, and Fashion East never fails to give us a show.

Making a name for yourself in the fashion world is no easy task, and it’s even more difficult to navigate in the midst of a global pandemic. However, Fashion East gave four brands the platform to do just that. Goomheo, Nensi Dojaka, Saul Nash, and Maximilian Davis are Fashion East’s talents this year, presenting their respective collections via fashion films.

Fresh young voices Goomheo and Saul Nash presented menswear collections, while Nensi Dojaka took to womenswear, and Maximillian Davis presented looks for everyone.

Nensi Dojaka

If you’ve been coveting Bella Hadid’s skimpy ’90s fit since she rocked it at the virtual VMAs this year, you’re in luck. The designer behind that major fashion moment, Nensi Dojaka, is one of the incredible designers showcased by Fashion East this season. In a collection on par with Bella’s standout look, Albanian designer Dojaka brings us intimacy and even more ’90s chic for Spring/Summer 21.

These 12 minimalist looks highlight the shape of the body in various types of movement, as the designer herself was inspired by dance and the female form. The all-black collection with hints of nude, asymmetrical silhouettes, and web of straps bring an effortless edge and sense of cool, reminiscent of the ’90s but truly well suited for today’s society.

As women, men, and non-binary folk alike increasingly embrace the beauty of the human body, collections like Nensi Dojaka’s are an important part of that journey of understanding and confidence. The collection is sexy and daring but provides a sense of comfort, urging the audience to get comfortable with their bodies in a similar fashion.

Maximilian

Maximilian Davis’s debut collection is an homage to Black history as well as a study on the evolution of Black culture and what that might mean today and in the future.

Comprised of both men’s and women’s looks, Maximilian’s bold collection is also rich with perspective. The designer’s technical skills reflect various facets of culture that he values, such as eveningwear suited for movement and slightly oversized tailoring reflecting “Trinidadian ease.”

The designer juxtaposes vastly different references in a single look, a low-rise waist skirt, reminiscent of Lil’ Kim’s iconic style, below a keyhole halter top, referencing the high-neck cravat worn by historical figure Jean-Baptiste Belley, the first Black deputy elected to the French National Convention. While these two seemingly may not have much in common, they reflect Maximilian’s idea of the Black identity today, consisting of all that came before.

Maximilian also offers a look into what may come, the daring cut-outs and bold slashes are an intriguing exploration of futuristic design. The collection as a whole plays with texture and silhouettes in bold new ways, offering innovative styles.

It’s no question that of these designers have their own distinctive voice, honing their craft and continuing to find themselves as artists with the support of Fashion East. We’re just lucky to get a glimpse of the journey.