Maria Grazia Chiuri made her Couture debut at FENDI with a collection built around the relationship between clothing and the body. Instead of treating couture as an exercise in structure, she focused on movement, proposing garments that follow the wearer’s gestures through fluid tailoring, and carefully placed draping.

The collection draws inspiration from Histoire d’eau, the 1977 film directed by Jacques de Bascher and commissioned by Karl Lagerfeld for his first ready-to-wear collection at FENDI. Its portrayal of sensuality and freedom informs Chiuri’s vision, where desire becomes a creative force expressed through ease, confidence, and intimacy.

Lightweight chiffon dresses with black-and-white striped inlays share the runway with kimono-inspired jackets, coats, and outerwear for both women and men. Velvet, grain de poudre, and cashmere reinforce the collection’s emphasis on comfort without compromising couture craftsmanship, while draped dresses shape the silhouette without relying on corsetry.

Throughout the collection, FENDI’s ateliers demonstrate the technical expertise that defines the house. Fur is reimagined in feather-like striped compositions suspended on tulle, while cloaks and capes feature arabesques that evolve into leather, fabric, and fur leaves, flowers, and feathers. Menswear introduces oversized wraps reminiscent of blankets or shelters, and double-faced cashmere coats are finished with intricate leather labyrinths.

Chiuri also highlights couture as a collaborative practice, bringing together the house’s different ateliers to combine traditional craftsmanship with experimentation. Her first Couture collection for FENDI presents the maison’s heritage through a contemporary lens, using technical precision and material innovation to create a wardrobe designed around movement and individuality.