For Spring/Summer 27, Maria Grazia Chiuri considered the words of E. E. Cummings: “I like my body when it is with your body.” It is an act of mutual recognition, an affirmation of one’s own identity through the recognition of another. The concept is explored by Jessica Benjamin in The Bonds of Love, where she examines mutual recognition through the relationship between mother and child.

Benjamin argues that, as humans, we have an innate need to be recognized as individuals by other individuals in order to understand ourselves as such. More simply, recognition lies at the core of being human. We yearn to encounter others as separate people who are like us and yet remain distinct. Benjamin describes the “joy of discovering the other,” something perhaps most easily observed in infants. Though it may become less obvious later in life, that same joy persists in our everyday encounters and pleasures. Its most romanticized expression is intimate love: the connection formed between two people and the joy of discovering another person.

Chiuri’s Fendi found a similar joy in discovery, one she explored through a process of undressing. Models bared skin as silk and lace bralettes peeked out from beneath sheer layers. They stepped onto a runway made of mirrors, a stage that demanded reflection and called onlookers to consider themselves and find comfort in their own skin. The collection leaned heavily into femininity and sensuality, landing somewhere between cocktail attire and lingerie.

The colors felt equally considered. Light sage green contrasted with a black outercoat, and while some looks used color sparingly, if at all, others made it the main attraction. A sheer peachy-orange dress stood out alongside a yellow fur boa. Fur appeared throughout the collection, trimming coats or emerging as colorful scarves draped around the body.

As the show progressed, dresses took on various forms, moving beyond the simplicity of the slip before giving way to jumpsuits. One appeared in velvet cheetah print, another in olive green with a relaxed, slouchy fit. Each look encouraged movement and reflection, seen from every angle against the mirrored runway. In turn, the mirrors projected an image of freedom in expression and emotion: the image of a modern woman comfortable with being seen.

And, of course, no Fendi runway is complete without a Baguette. The bag—made iconic once again by nostalgic fans of Sex and the City—is a piece Fendi constantly imagines and reimagines. For Spring/Summer 27, the Baguette embraced maximalism, appearing in various exotic leathers, animal prints, vivid colors, and embroidered finishes. Its classic shape was finished with a bold buckle, balancing statement-making design with functionality and making it the perfect purse for a night out.