FENDI debuted its new menswear collection at the FENDI Factory outside of Florence, where artisans gather to craft fine leather goods. The setting was truly the perfect fit for the collection, as the aesthetic of earth and concrete mimicked the tones and utilitarian elegance of the garments. As a show meant to ponder the relationship between innovation and nature, it has certainly found success in emphasizing the push and pull of the industrial and the handmade.
Crafting the archetype of the ‘corporate artisan,’ FENDI invites its wearers to embrace a juxtaposition of workwear belts and halter-neck collared shirts. The collection is also a proponent of layering, pairing different lengthed skirts over tailored trousers and sheer crochet pieces over buttery leather. Silvia Venturini Fendi, Artistic Director of Accessories and Menswear, aimed to play with proportions, which is evident in shrunken body tanks, zip-off suit trousers, and knee-length dress shirts.
Delightfully reminiscent of the Tuscan landscape, the collection utilized mineral shades of umber and terracotta, sprinkled in with sage, limestone, and chalk. To match the color palette, many raw materials are present, like woven paper textiles, fine linen, unbleached cotton drill, and Selleria-stitch nubuck leather.
FENDI’s emphasis on craftsmanship is evident in the subsequent SS24 accessories line. Balancing more supple, natural shapes with rigid and sturdy bags, the collection includes woven baskets and knotted jacquard ‘lunch’ bags, along with FF luggage in bright tool prints. The season’s shoe is a FENDI clog, complete with a swivel heel strap and molded FF sole in bio-based rubber. As part of the FENDI KENGO KUMA project–a new artistic dialogue between Italy and Japan’s architectural principles–FENDI has designed the Peekaboo Baguette Soft Trunk and FENDI Flow sneakers with traditional waranshi paper, bamboo, birch bark, and Tuscan olivewood.
To honor the FENDI Factory artisans, the workers received a private first look at the collection before the press, guests, and friends of the House arrived at the factory.