Maximilian Davis, Ferragamo’s new creative director, is taking the brand back to its Hollywood roots. Once a mainstay of ‘Old Hollywood,’ Davis attempts to bring the brand into a new era, connecting it to the luxuriousness and eroticism of New Hollywood glamor. The results, encapsulated in his Spring/Summer 2023 collection for Milan Fashion Week, are worthy of those namesake Hollywood stars. 

At its essence, the Ferragamo SS23 collection is sleek and clean. A muted palette with minimal color mixing allows the garments to speak for themselves, and keen attention to detail brings looks together. Dresses and suits are primarily fitted to the body, accentuating the natural silhouette but never overdoing it. 

The collection also assumes a certain languid sense of liquidity, with dresses that drape and curve with abandon. Most of the collection’s garments allow for movement, making motion shots some of the most interesting in the collection’s photography. As the model moves, their dress or flowing shirt is free to float about. It’s a beautiful sight, watching this fabric take on its own life and meaning. 

While the minimalist and classic feel is certainly reminiscent of Old Hollywood, the collection’s luxe eroticism brings it into the new. Black leather straps and exposed skin appear throughout the collection, calling to a sense of sex that oozes from Hollywood’s allure. 

Also crucial to this collection are crystals, offering up that sense of opulence. Harkening back to the sparkling red shoes Ferragamo made for Marilyn Monroe, the collection features a glittering red sheer top and pants. This look is Davis’ love letter to the history of Ferragamo, proving that he has the passion to build upon the Ferragamo name. 

In its mission to reflect both Old and New Hollywood, Ferragamo has also provided an easy stress test for its collection. These looks are built for the red carpet, they’re perfect for the minds and bodies of singers and influencers alike. If this collection succeeded in its mission, we should be seeing Ferragamo garments on every Hollywood A-lister in the next few months. For that, only time will tell.