Foundations Of Ease: Berluti Unveils Their 2023 Fall Winter Collection
In four propositions, the luxury house of Berluti welcomes menswear classics customized to the timelessness, versatility, and boldness.
In a world of luxury, time, ease, and essentiality are foundations that are yet to be unchanged. For contemporary design house of Berluti, it is a reflection of an instinctive and unconstrained approach to living: an effortless elegance shaped by a dynamic life on the move and the reinvented dress codes for which it calls, rooted in fine craftsmanship imbued with the soul of the Maison’s history. Therefore, in great pride, the house has officially revealed its Fall-Winter 2023 collection entitled The Great Escape, a procession of garments founded in a refined approach to the reality of contemporary dressing, released in four chapters over the course of the season.
Signifying a revitalization of Berluti’s genetics, the Fall 2023 collection embodies the foundation of Toile Marbeuf through a new line of handbags inspired by the interiors of the store whose name it carries. The premise informs a visual conversation between the past and future reflected in each of the collection’s releases. Summit Icons, the first launch, stages a conversation between sprezzatura and sport in a wardrobe at once timeless and bold. In Ascend Play, the contemporary sportswear wardrobe is interpreted through the elevated binoculars of Berluti, while Ridge Travel studies a generational approach to tailoring through sporty and functional construction and fabrication. With Peak Point, the Maison adapts its own signatures to a distinctly alpine wardrobe. The release concludes a season proposition distinguished by a diversified evolution of menswear classics customized to the timelessness, versatility, and boldness synonymous with luxury today.
The first release under The Great Escape, Summit Icons defines and refines ideas of timeless wardrobe staples through a persistently bold disposition. Constructed in silk jersey and new heightened qualities of leather – including a version with the Maison’s embossed Scritto motif – archetypal garments such as perfectos, chore jackets and track pants are enriched with equal parts sprezzatura and sport. They appear in a Berluti-centric colour palette of blues and greens respectively named Indigo Denim and Opuntia that nods to the signature patina of its shoemaking. In turn, the release debuts a new lightweight Trainer sneaker created as a take on a 1960s sports classic, interpreted with supple leather and suede on a textured rubber sole.
The second release under The Great Escape, Ascend Play focuses on the essential contemporary sportswear wardrobe, imbuing a relaxed silhouette with the elegance innate to the Maison. Fleece tracksuits, joggers, and logo sweatshirts constructed in suede propose an authentic notion of activewear, while a deerskin varsity jacket and a nylon parka in Berluti’s trademark Scritto pattern make the ordinary icons of sporty casualwear extraordinary. Created in supple-grained Venezia leather, the release premiers two new Softy bags: a backpack with a zipped shoe compartment and trolley loop, and a roomy messenger that doubles as a cross-body bag, both adorned with the Scritto-engraved Tuck metal closure.
The third release under The Great Escape, Ridge Travel exemplifies the meeting between artisanal and technological craftsmanship at the heart of contemporary luxury. Cut in a relaxed tailoring silhouette, it is a union illustrated in stretch cashmere suits, engineered leather jackets, and intricate knitwear retained in neutral colours. The palette creates a backdrop for the new Toile Marbeuf handbags. Framed in shades of brown Venezia leather evoking the boiserie and club chairs found in the Maison’s storied boutique on rue Marbeuf, the six editions feature in lightly coated refined cotton and linen canvas emblazoned with a new take on the Scritto motif informed by the one forged in the entrance grid of the store as well as the balustrade of its staircase. The bags appear alongside the emblematic Shadow sneaker constructed in sporty knits or cashmere.
The final release under The Great Escape, Peak Point amplifies the archetypes of the weatherproof winter wardrobe through advanced craftsmanship and construction. Painted in a warm palette inherent to the house, knitwear and casually tailored trousers in fine wools are overlaid with super-refined padded outerwear including a lightweight down blouson crafted in supple patinated leather.