In his new Fall/Winter 2020/2021 collection, GCDS designer Giuliano Calza turned to his Italian roots, dreaming up a unique collection inspired by his hometown of Naples. The creative wanted to share this distinct sense of “extra” that is so characteristic of Naples, filled to the brink with the intricate tapestry of emotions and aesthetic — which Giuliano decided to mix and match throughout the collection.

“I have never felt at home wherever I lived,” he explains, “but my heritage gave me a feeling of never having left home, wherever I found myself working.”

Giuliano got started on the collection by taking a deep dive into shapes and silhouettes that defined the pop era of the ’80s and ’90s, utilizing more subdued color tones than those from past seasons. While womenswear was highlighted by colored faux furs with denim, low waistlines, long coats, and flare pants, the menswear continued to build on themes from this past season, incorporating new fabrics that are closer to the traditional sartorial aesthetic than contemporary streetwear along the way.

Dubbed Vico Stella 10, the collection features various collaborations that collectively tell a Neapolitan tale: the iconic Tom & Jerry duo whose 1950 appearance arriving in the Gulf of Naples is etched into every “scugnizzi” mind; Preciosa’s precision-cut crystals adorn gowns, knitwear, and accessories. All elements coming together to create the spirit of Naples, the spirit of Giuliano, the spirit of GCDS.

Click through the gallery below to see images the label’s latest runway show in Milan: