Giambattista Valli FW22: Space Odyssey in Florals
The Parisian fashion house’s collection marries futuristic mod with old-world glamor.
Space age fashion returns with Giambattista Valli’s FW22 show, which draws inspiration from the 60s and 70s in creating ethereal, hyperfemme looks. The collection is bathed in pastels and defined by structured Mary Quant-esque silhouettes and impeccable tailoring. Valli marries his signature chiffon and frills with futurism, evoking a dreamlike atmosphere that lays somewhere between the moon landing and Woodstock.
Astronaut-esque mod fashion has graced this season’s runways with the likes of Courreges, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana. The show debuts with a monochrome white look featuring a boatneck A-line dress, white stockings, and silver pumps. The model herself was a Twiggy lookalike with slicked-back hair and oversized frames, transporting the viewer to a time long-forgotten. Other looks included tailored pea coats with exaggerated waists, an ultra-structured take on a babydoll dress, and leg-baring hotpants. The collection’s outerwear is as dramatic as its eveningwear, featuring grand afghan coats and floor-length suiting looks.
However, no amount of boyish mod tailoring could get Valli to abandon his floaty, chiffon-laden signature. Valli stayed true to his roots with empire waists and loose lower-body silhouettes, while low-waists took center-stage in many runway shows this season. Looks were as feminine as ever, evoking old-world luxury with off shoulder dresses, tulle detailing, and waist-accentuating silhouettes. A shoulder-baring pink chiffon gown stood out from the rest with a dramatic flowing skirt and an oversized flower on the bodice.
Valli opts for acetate medallion sequins for his partywear in what appears to be an homage to 60s icon Paco Rabbanne. The bedazzled partywear is contrasted with mint hues, tapestry-esque florals and corsetry, creating a new-meets-old irony – it’s Euphoria meets Bridgerton. The collection is both fearless and timeless – Valli at his best.