Giorgio Armani will always be remembered for his deliberate defiance of confinement. As Milan Fashion Week comes to a close, the namesake brand presents a collection simultaneously casual and authoritative; it was unmistakably Armani right down to its bones—or lack thereof.

This season we are brought into the sublime sanctuary of a Milanese atrium. Atriums have been used since their dawn as a quiet respite, one in which reflection is deepened within a prism of glass and veined marble. Refracting light illuminates discreet geometry, evoking a serenity not often found in a busy and fast-paced world. As the show begins, Armani reminds us that luxury must not be proclaimed with bravado or flamboyance and that life’s most lavish luxuries can be whispered with equal impact.

Set to the symphonic luxury of Ludovico Einaudi, an ambiance of ethereality transpires as models begin to grace the runway at a lyrical pace.

Stemming from its Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the brand incorporates similar sandy hues and asymmetrical cuts with an autumnal adaptation. Heavier fabrics and historically rich textiles crystallize these concepts as the Armani man ventures into the cold.

Shifting the focus to its wearer remains Giorgio Armani’s mantra as it reasserts that less is more—this time with a playful spin adding rich geometrics to its opus. Manipulating structure by employing narrow paneling and angular directional lines, the brand reflects Milanese architecture recalling the grace of its atriums. It relegates shock value and trends as fads. Continuing to harmonize the shape of its wearers with motion, Armani’s grace lies within the merging of the body and the garment.

With a ceaseless affinity for glazing sportswear with a sophisticated lacquer, Giorgio Armani continues to remain fixed on a sartorial destiny of statement through motion. Loose-fitting trousers and balloon-like cargo pants embody this founding vision as models appear with equal comfort and grandeur.

The garments avoid scandal. Instead, they embrace sensuality with lavish fabrics such as cashmere, alpaca, and velvet, creating a multi-sensory experience for those who wish to feel, and not merely see, luxury in their clothes. One plush knee-length graphite zip-up coat epitomizes the tactile divinity of Armani’s latest endeavors.

The house’s reimagination of the suit in the contemporary context provoked much interest in a garment consistently demanding redemption. Wielding color blocking as an instrument of reform, Armani and his team aptly reassessed the suit in an olive green and black ensemble. The suit’s jacket, lined with black fabric, is styled with one collar inverted, contrasting its adjacent peer. As our gaze is redirected within the jacket, an asymmetrical vest with panels of olive and black alternate in a zealous composition. Other urban modifications to the suit are seen in blazers with attached hoods framed with drawstrings.

While the brand remains faithful to its origins, a leopard-print floor-length zip-up coat twisted necks as it boldly glided down the runway. Its stark contrast to the collection’s subdued classicism reminded viewers Armani, too, can adapt to modernity while upholding tradition.

Perhaps, Giorgio Armani himself thought a plot twist might refresh editors and other front-row regulars from the brand’s signature greige.

Feeding into this urge for vibrance, a wave of crimson washes over the show. Knitwear with a touch of logo-bound clout enters, accompanied by ski pants, padded vests, ribbed jackets, and color-blocked ski suits.

Monochromatic leather gloves embossed with the house’s magnified insignia highlighted the collection’s austere luxury. Fulfilling the needs of the modern man on the go, ribbed leather duffle bags also added quiet staples to the collection that composed a look of layered distinction. Etching a futuristic flair into the show, Ovular sunglasses were also presented, further proclaiming the timelessness of Armani’s tailoring—whether worn now or in the next millennium.

Paralleling the brand’s fixation on tradition, it closed its Fall/Winter 2023 collection with a series of Armani brides and grooms. Linking arms as they pass, they dazzle in the darkness that encases them. Glittering fabrics give the illusion of a captivating dichotomy as space-age sophistication alters the DNA of tailored tradition.

Understated in décor yet expressive in structure, the brand instills a vital sense of wearability in its clothes, ingraining ingenuity in the most nuanced of details. Armani is an architect of modern style. As enigmatic as the revolutionary fashion designer may be, we come closer to understanding his legacy with each collection presented.