A new era begins as OTB Group officially announces Glenn Martens as the house’s new Creative Director. Known for his fearless approach to design and deep respect for fashion history, Martens steps into the role with an arsenal of creative expertise and an innate understanding of Margiela’s enigmatic DNA.

Few appointments in fashion feel this perfect. Martens, a Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp graduate, carries the same conceptual rigor and deconstructionist sensibility that shaped Martin Margiela’s vision. That’s exactly what makes him the right choice. As the creative force behind Y/Project, he redefined experimental tailoring, pushing silhouettes into new dimensions. At Diesel, where he will continue as creative director, he has brought an even bolder edge to the house’s industrial heritage. Martens is not here to repeat what came before, he’s here to reinterpret it. Distort it, and make it completely his own.


Photograph by Arnaud Lajeunie

For Renzo Rosso, Chairman of OTB Group, Martens’ appointment is a natural progression: “I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of. After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm.”

Following in the footsteps of Martin Margiela and John Galliano, Martens becomes the third couturier to lead the house, a title that carries weight. Galliano’s tenure was defined by an electrifying, almost surreal take on Margiela’s ethos, turning the brand into one of the most radical forces in contemporary couture.

Martens’ hyper-experimental approach, his love for exaggeration, his play on structure, his ability to make unconventional materials feel every day fits seamlessly into the Margiela universe. His past work has already hinted at the kind of chaos and surrealist precision the house is known for. He understands the tension between avant-garde and wearability, between theater and function—and that fashion is an art form, not always functional. A concept that, over the years, has often been lost in translation.

Stefano Rosso, Chairman of Maison Margiela, reinforced the significance of this transition: “Maison Margiela is at a key moment in its history and on well-defined and solid tracks. The appointment of Glenn will further build upon the heritage of the house, which we are beyond proud to have in our Group.”

Margiela’s philosophy has always been about deconstruction, but not just in the way a garment is physically taken apart. It’s the deconstruction of identity, norms, and what fashion is even supposed to be. Martin Margiela, who founded the house in 1988, rejected the industry’s obsession with celebrity. He refused to be photographed. He made his models wear wigs and masks, stripping away the idea of the face of fashion. His clothes were equally radical, he was one of the first to embrace upcycling, long before sustainability became a buzzword.

Then came John Galliano, who took over in 2014 and set the house on fire in the best way possible. His rule was an experiment in couture surrealism, he transformed Margiela into the most cutting-edge couture house of its time, dare I say.

So, what comes next? Maison Margiela’s future is now in the hands of a designer who thrives on challenging conventions. A perfect match for a house that has always done the same.

Martens himself acknowledged the weight of this new role, stating, “I feel extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades. And I thank Renzo for the trust he is putting in me.”

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