GUCCI SS23: Seeing Double

GUCCI SS23: Seeing Double

GUCCI SS23: Seeing Double

What’s better than one Gucci look? Two Gucci looks.

What’s better than one Gucci look? Two Gucci looks.

Text: Henry Chandonnet

Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, grew up with two mothers. Or, at least that’s what he referred to them as. The truth is that his mother and her twin sister were fused at the hip, each providing a motherly figure for the young Michele. This led to an infatuation with doubles, one that informs Michele’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection for Gucci. With twin pairs of models strutting down the runway, Michele’s collection asks how duplication informs creative vision. 

Image courtesy of Gucci
Image courtesy of Matteo Canestraro-Bureau Future

The ‘Twinsburg’ collection features 68 identical twins, each holding hands as they walked in exacting replica garments. The production of dual garments reflects upon the looks themselves, and how we envision them. Whereas one grand, overlarge look may be seen as a maximalist statement, the presence of a second makes it seem more natural. It’s this exact visual balancing that Michele intends to maximize, using the power of twos to both warp and embolden his looks. 

In terms of styling, the collection maintains many of the Gucci signatures. Most garments are oversized and baggy, forming odd shapes and unique silhouettes. The collection is littered with bright colors and prints, like its glittered orange jackets screaming “FUORI!!!” These Gucci signatures find new meaning and power in their duplicates.

Image courtesy of Gucci
Image courtesy of Matteo Canestraro-Bureau Future

The presence of twin models also brings greater attention to the modeling and styling choices. When one model has waist-length blonde hair, it’s a personal choice. When two do, it’s more obviously an intentional choice on the part of the designer. Michele plays with which looks he gives to which set of models, each being intentional and specific. 

Maybe an unintended consequence of the twin theme is that there isn’t a particular ‘stand-out’ garment, mostly because the eye is drawn more to the spectacle than the individual looks. In a show of twos, one is almost never drawn to the one, the singular. In that way, ‘Twinsburg’ is less of a collection of garments and more of an artistic showcase. 

Image courtesy of Gucci
Image courtesy of Matteo Canestraro-Bureau Future

In its effort to constantly reinvent itself without diluting brand value, Gucci is clearly succeeding. The line is something entirely new, twisting the fashion world and asking what can be done with the medium, but it doesn’t let go of those singular Gucci-isms. Sure it’s beautiful, interesting, and eye-catching, but more than anything it’s smart.

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