Sabato De Sarno, the newly appointed creative director of Gucci, is extending his ‘Ancora’ manifesto, initiated during last September’s womenswear show, into the realm of menswear. Last Friday, De Sarno debuted his first menswear collection for Gucci continuing his desire to rebrand. For De Sarno, the word “ancora” in Italian, and “again” in English, means “a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.” Heavily influenced by the “emotions that were felt, this time through the perspective of menswear,” Gucci’s menswear collection feels inspired.

The euphoria-inspired (the feeling, not the TV series) collection radiates streams of reds, blues, greens, and yellows throughout the black-and-white charged collection. The simple additions of rich, electrifying colors add intrigue to the staples of the collection, such as Gucci’s iconic House Web Stripes that ascend the back vent of the trench coat. One thing you will see again and again (or should we say ancora and ancora) throughout the collection is leather. From bags to coats to pants, the pieces are crafted in the timeless texture of leather. While many pieces showcase solid colors, one piece stands out among the rest—a brown, black, and white striped snakeskin leather overcoat.

Largely, the collection embraces a loose and baggy style that envelops the models. However, as the presentation progresses, the silhouettes evolve into more captivating forms, including bejeweled trousers and a diamond-studded, low-cut tank. Most notably, a black trench coat stands out with embellishments cascading off it, bouncing with each step the model takes.

For many seasons, Gucci had been staging its shows at the Gucci Hub. However, De Sarno decided to forgo this tradition by showing this first menswear collection in an empty warehouse. Just like any warehouse, the space was concrete and bare, yet Gucci transformed the installation with just beams of white light. Sitting front row were the likes of Elliot Page, Kaytranada, and Mustafa The Poet.

In Gucci’s rebranding, there’s a deliberate emphasis on evoking emotions. The collection, in terms of feelings, feels fresh and chic—an essential revision from what Gucci has been lacking for a while. The infusion of emotions truly reflects a renewed direction for the brand under the creative vision of De Sarno.