You know summer—short-shorts, surfboards, and glistening legs.

If you think I’m talking about a day at the beach, you’d be wrong. I’m talking about Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 Menswear Collection, which celebrates the freedom of encounters, from the city to the beach.

Gucci transforms the Triennale di Milano, breathing fresh air into the historic museum while lining the walls with dated books and drawings. Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s runway show begins with models descending from a spiral staircase stepping out onto the runway in the Triennale di Milano, then spitting them out into the glistening sun. Through this runway, De Sarno illustrates his vision of Gucci’s clothes seamlessly transitioning from one place to another. 

Slacks are cut short, glasses are thrown to the back, and fishnet tops are sheer. Suit jackets are thrown over the clothes for when the spring gets chilly. Although De Sarno is clearly not scared of having fun with Gucci, the clothes somehow manage to stay wearable.

Sabato De Sarno focuses on fun prints in this collection presenting surfboarders, palms, dolphins, and hibiscus leaves. Though mimicking bowling shirts, some net polo shirts and beaded tassels bounced and flounced down the runway, others donned embellishments like the borrowed three-pockets from the utility world or applique embroidered flowers.

Gucci’s seems to be all about eye-catching—or maybe light catching—one long sleeve polo shifts from brown to blue, resembling a body heat map.

The opener features a muted green overcoat, setting the tone for a collection dominated by muted shades. Gucci’s classic sultry red makes a return, mixed in with black and white easy wearables.

From surfer zippers to jewelry segmented into bamboo-shaped links, nods to the tropics are all over the collection. Gucci’s Horsebit hardware elevated pointed footwear and slim belts, while archival bags elevated entire looks.

The front row included friends of the house, Paul Mescal, Serena and Venus Williams, and Ghali.