Today in Paris, British-American designer Harris Reed officially made his debut as Creative Director of Nina Ricci. The moment was a dream realized for the acclaimed designer: “As a queer kid growing up in Arizona, French fashion was my escape.”

Reed—who is known for his emphasis on gender-fluid design—wanted the Fall/Winter 2023 collection to be playful, optimistic, and feminine. “I wanted to nod to the Maison’s extraordinary history and at the same time to reinterpret those feminine codes for a modern consumer in a poetic, humorous and fluid way,” he explained.

 

 

 

At the young age of 26, Reed has already made his name in the industry. In December, he was honored by the British Fashion Council as one of 15 Leaders of Change at the Fashion Awards 2022. His designs have been worn by an array of red carpet heavy-hitters like Harry Styles, Florence Pugh, and Adele. (This collection was marked by lots of red carpet fodder, like bright colors, sleek silhouettes, and striking proportions—on-trend micro mini skirts among them.)

But not everything was grounded in trends. Reed modernized archive symbols of the Maison, including doves, apples, and flowers. Likewise, several of the collection’s prints, as well as the show invitation, were adapted from a series of Jeanine Brito paintings. The German artist, whose work explores memory and desire, is set to continue an ongoing collaboration with Reed and Nina Ricci.

 

 

 

In a year when catwalks were more homogenous than many of us hoped they would be by 2023, Reed and his team brought together a cast of diverse models, bringing the collection to life. This choice is emblematic of Reed’s approach to fashion, which puts joy and acceptance at the center—where it should be.