For Simone Rocha, dreaming up the perfect garment is more than sketching on a mood board or going straight to construction; it is the byproduct of harnessing a feeling. For her latest contemporary Spring Summer 23’ collection, fragility, remorse, anger, and nature translate to an inimitable force breathing her truths through the looks. Born as a reaction to Rocha’s past stressors, she builds on urgency as a fundamental way to release these emotions.

Intricate and personal, the collection enlivens a sense of femininity. Through florals – Echinacea, Chamomile, Daisies, Tulips – Rocha explains “the earth healing.” For this procession of garments, “the earth” mirrors a more feminine interpretation, perhaps mother earth as a motif for Rocha herself. “Digging deep and digging the earth,” Rocha heals herself through femininity, releasing trauma and employing it as fuel for “a new proposition.”

Constructed volume and disrupted proportions welcome summer wools, quilted tulip faille coats, a bomber satin uniform, and an abundance of loose silhouettes painted with florals and sequin daisies. Yet, through the process of unzipping, a newfound exigency reveals what is underneath. Pausing and running, Rocha activates dormant energy and melds her history into the looks, unlocking space for creative energies.

Watch the full show, below.