A long week of shows, parties, activations, and cocktails has wrapped up in Mexico City. For this season’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, presented by Marriott Bonvoy, designers unveiled their latest collections in front of local and international press, celebrities, and influencers at the central Fashion Week base of FORUM near the city’s Hipódromo race course. Sponsors like TikTok, Mykita, and Air France had a big presence at the venue with interactive installations throughout.

Throughout the week, it was clear designers were embracing their Mexican heritage through their thoughtful, cultural designs that still appealed to a modern, global audience. Below, V rounded up some of our favorite highlights from the Spring 2024 shows at Mexico City Fashion Week.

Toronero

Cowboy hats, crop tops, leather jackets, and body-hugging knits made up Emilio de Anda and David Hernández’s latest show for their label, Toronero. Titled “Bonanza,” the collection was inspired by utopian summers in the Mexican countryside as seen in the raw textures, sturdy denim, and utilitarian pieces. With roots in Jalisco, Guadalajara, and Milan, the duo brings a multicultural perspective to their designs rooted in the charra and vaquera aesthetics that they have been honing for six years.

Daniela Bustos Maya

Accessory designer Daniela Bustos Maya is known for her intricate jewelry designs that take inspiration from her many years in Mexico—she’s a native of Argentina but first traveled to Yucatán, where she discovered her passion for jewelry design that took its inspiration from 20th-century Mexican coins. For her Spring 2024, collection, she referenced the “versatility, forms, colors, and history” of the RESILIENT Bougainvillea flower, which, like Bustos Maya, originates in South America.

Carla Fernández

One of the most recognized fashion houses in Mexico, Carla Fernández focuses on preserving the rich textile heritage of indigenous communities and other local and urban collectives in Mexico through ethical practices. As always, she worked with numerous skilled artisans, weavers, and dyers from Mexico’s 15 states for her latest collection using traditional techniques. This season she was inspired by Teocintle, the ancestor crop of modern corn, and sought to start a conversation around the protection of native crops.

By Efraín Mogollón

Flouncy ruffles, bubble skirts, poofy sleeves, and giant bows dominated Efraín Mogollón’s Spring lineup. The Venezuela-based designer’s signature whimsy and feminine spirit were on full display here and captured his refined yet playful aesthetic. Invited as a special international guest this season, his background in industrial design was evident in the sculptural flourishes of the collection, which mixed avant-garde touches with laid-back shirtdresses and light wash jeans that conjure a beachside resort wardrobe.

Lorena Saravia

Lorena Saravia has participated in the biannual MBFWMx since 2011, establishing her as one of Mexico’s most prominent designers. Her latest collection depicts the symbolism of the Lion inspired by a pair of earrings that belonged to her grandmother. There was lots of silk, satin, leather, and denim in both vibrant and soft colors “as a nod to the multi-dimensional personality that defines the Saravia Lioness.” She once again integrated pieces into the collection inspired by traditional Mexican cultural codes.

Francisco Cancino

Francisco Cancino approached his latest collection with a historical and anthropological lens. Titled “The First Mexicans,” the pieces are rendered in bold shades of red, yellow, and blue against other neutral looks in sand and white. Metalwork is mixed in with wool, cotton, linen, and leather. It’s about his deep appreciation for the vast wealth of Mexico, for its traditions, its history, and its people—rethinking it and creating something new and forward-looking as in one of his affirmations: “I am not the best, but I am not the worst either. I’m good.”

Ex/Boyfriend

The idea behind Ex/Boyfriend came about as a mantra about couples and breakups: “The perfect couple doesn’t exist, but we can combine different pieces from your ex and make the perfect garment.” The result is a brand rooted in genderless pieces made from upcycled materials. For her latest collection, designer and founder Laura Carrillo’ proposed oversized men’s dress shirts, utility vests, cargo pockets, parka jackets, and casual double-breasted suits mixed and layered with upcycled garments.

Zurce

The multi-hyphenate creative and collaborator Daniel Herranz launched Zurce in 2021 after stints in media and publishing. He quickly developed his signature for handmade embroidery, knits, and traditional weaving techniques. His latest collection, titled “La Bruja,” takes him to a darker, witchy detour with an all-black color palette featuring a series of textures and structured silhouettes inspired by the late ‘70s and early ‘80s. In addition to handmade fabric and tailoring, there’s also hand embroidery and the integration of upcycling.