Set against the lush gardens of the Villa Medicea della Petraia in Florence, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake presented its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection. Staged outdoors, alongside an exhibition inside the villa, the show was a poetic dialogue between the Italian countryside and the sweep of a painter’s brush.

The looks were tactile and expressive. Plum-toned and striped shirting was cinched at the waist, resembling painters’ smocks—of which there were several variations. Jackets came with small brush-sized pockets, driving the artistic theme home. Continuing a motif from recent collections, men wore tights—not quite the return of the skinny jean, but I think it’s on its way back.

The colors were that of Caravaggio’s Boy with a Basket of Fruit—very Italian garden. Everything, naturally, was pleated. Think ripe reds in multi-layered trench coats and mandarin-orange deep V cardigans, some paired with matching stem-toned shorts. When the pieces weren’t hued like a garden haul, they were painted—adorned with abstract-esque produce painted over the garments, with thick brushstrokes like that of a landscape artist.

Some models appeared wrapped in garments resembling garment bags, a concept the brand dubbed “Carrier Carried” in the show notes. These pieces can be folded into bags themselves, “carrying their wearer somewhere new.” Maybe to another summer getaway? Accessories included pleated bags in coordinating colors and the ever-controversial socks with sandals.

Miyake also announced that this show is the first of many “Open Studios” they will be conducting. “Referencing the practice of artists opening their workspace to viewers, OPEN STUDIO is the means through which our brand opens itself to the world and provides global audiences an immersive experience of our design and making,” the brand stated. A little nomadic.

The details on this “Open Studio” are somewhat of a wash, but we may be getting more region-themed clothes. Which, if anything like this show, expect to see us waiting with painted expressions.