Hyper Feminine Codes Meet Masculine Sartorial: Jil Sanders 2023 Resort Collection

Hyper Feminine Codes Meet Masculine Sartorial: Jil Sanders 2023 Resort Collection

GEN V

Hyper Feminine Codes Meet Masculine Sartorial: Jil Sanders 2023 Resort Collection

Through soft, intricate tailoring, sculptural shapes, accents, and voids, creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier frame the collection as a method for self-expression.

Through soft, intricate tailoring, sculptural shapes, accents, and voids, creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier frame the collection as a method for self-expression.

Text: Maddie Street

The minimalist eponymous label of Jil Sanders exhibits a continuity of vision through their exclusive contemporary Resort 2023 Collection. Riddled throughout is a constant evolution of perspective, an evolving definition of beauty, shown through the merging of what constitutes a ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ wardrobe. The line of what constitutes menswear and womenswear radically diffuses here. With an emphasis on the subtlety of couture and the spark of invention, creative duo Lucie and Luke Meier show true dedication to rigorous design, craftsmanship, and the innovative techniques that have established Jil Sander as an embodiment of modernity and sophistication.

Through soft, intricate tailoring, sculptural shapes, accents, and voids, this collection becomes a method for self-expression. The color palette is equally varied: pastel with cream, pink, blue, yellow, and plum, with strikes of white, bright green, black, and gray, enhancing the prismatic nature of the collection. Hyper-feminine and masculine sartorial codes get reinterpreted, refined, and imbued with possibility through a procession of garments.

The intersection between menswear and womenswear is established in the reinvention of the suit. The upper body is sharp and tightly shaped, well defined. The bottom is fluid and voluminous. Skirts and dresses, important in width and shape, as the collection’s signature trousers, pleated and weightless, are worn below jackets in sharp suiting forms, rooted in decisively squared or chisel-toed loafers and boots.

Masculine sartorial codes shape tailored double-breasted wool jackets with narrow, squared shoulders. A series of dry Japanese wool coats and jackets; sharp, single-breasted, without lapels, fastened at the middle chest with a single glass jewel button, is worn atop ruffled silk shirts and dresses, squeezing and commanding the silhouette. A simple straight white tank top ends in billowy ivory trousers in silk and viscose. White and black cashmere turtlenecks, pullovers, and T-shirts show under the plunging necklines of straight tops and tunics pose as a focal point of the collection. The appearance of dimensional embroideries and prints accentuate the variety of textures and fabrics throughout.

Lengths vary. Dresses playing on the extremes of the hyper-feminine codes. Some are romantic, in pastel colors, with ruffles and ruches, silky and airy. Others are tapered, zipped top to bottom, transparent, exquisitely knitted in bright green, white, black, or entirely glass beads. Trench coats cling to the waistline. A plum bodysuit with short sleeves and three simple paint strokes are complete. Sharpness and evanescence; opposites coexist and draw very different silhouettes. From dry to feathery every shape is bold and inviting.

Geometrical in look and soft to the touch, the Cannolo bag, in new proportions with an elongated strap, with a trapezoid shoulder or handbag (with Whangee handles), and the jewelry, both graphic and nature-inspired, enhance the prismatic nature of the collection. The Empress bag in precious vegetable tanned leather is made to age beautifully.

Credits: Images Courtesy of Jil Sanders

UP NEXT

Reduce, Reuse, Repurpose: Burberry & The BFC Supply Emerging Artists With An Influx of Fabric Donations
With sustainability at the vanguard, Burberry launched the ReBurberry Fabric Initiative.