In the Absence of an Icon, Vivienne Westwood Officially Enters a New Chapter

As Vivienne Westwood presents its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Andreas Kronthaler offers a glimpse of what’s to come for the sartorial sensation—sans Vivienne.

The fashion world shook as Vivienne Westwood was announced deceased in January of this year. Whether in punky creations or elaborate, tartan-clad bodices, tributes to Westwood multiplied, ranging from New York to Milan and everything between this season. Amidst the mourning of an icon, many speculated what this would entail for her eponymous brand.

Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

With Andreas Kronthaler behind the steering wheel, Vivienne Westwood presented its collection last season not with a specific narrative in mind but with specific characters instead. Each unique in their quirks and energy, a new persona emerged out of the darkness and onto a round platform with every passing look.

Tailored jackets in checks of deep blues and charcoal hues entered the scene. Paired with either matching micro shorts for men or asymmetrical, pleated miniskirts for women, Vivienne Westwood once again subverted gender norms with irrefutable style. While this was nothing new for the brand, seeing how the iconic house would stick it to the patriarchy for the spring was no less a pleasure.

With artful repurposing of historical references, the house tapped into its codes, reimagining the heavily referenced boned corset. The usual, ruffles filled the collection with a buccaneering spirit. Their curled edges exuded feminine majesty on the hems of ballooning trousers or sweeping the ground in lengthy trains. Adornments were architectural in that they augmented layers of drama to the body. This took the form of voluminous folds swathing the chest and shoulders.

Colossal croc-embossed platforms created quite the scandal (and challenge for its models) on the runway. Either in ribboned ballerina styles or boots, the house’s latest rendition of the platform launched models to the heavens with their mountainous heights. Swashbuckling boots, too, appeared in enchanting thigh-high models. Likely referencing the “Pirates” collection, the house repurposed an eternally cherished concept into a shoe updated with radiant gold detailing.

Its presentation resembled everything the house stood for: unbridled individualism and bold self-expression through its affinity for historical references.

Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

As Vivienne Westwood returns to Paris to present its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, we find ourselves in the Hotel de la Marine. Opening the show with a top printed with the face of the late fashion designer, a model confirmed that this season would be a requiem—quite literally. Framed by floral embroidery and topped off with sapphire-blue, sheer accordion sleeves, the top took a more vibrant take on remembrance. A very British checked skirt with its frayed hems evoked the DIY aesthetic Westwood was famed for. The look screamed Vivienne down to its sky-high platforms lacquered in onyx.

Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

A retrospective of sorts ensued with silhouettes characteristic of Westwood’s exploration of form arising in exaggeratively puffed sleeves and thrusting shoulders redolent of military uniforms circa World War II. As awe-inspiring as their rigid structures were, soft forms also delighted attendees, with coats slouching in sensuous folds; look 46 exemplifies this.

Silhouettes were not the only eulogy of Westwood’s design legacy, for the house served up a stupendous helping of Prince of Wales Checks, Glen Checks, Gingham, and Tartan. Taking form in voluminous two-tier skirts, relaxed trousers, knee-length A-line skirts, or ultra-oversized outerwear, they spoke of tradition and heritage.

Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Patterns then mushroomed with vigor as the presentation reached its peak. Whether balancing black and white florals or Peter Pan-esque silhouettes, clashing prints were paired, amplifying the playful spirit of the collection.

Eternally associated with the house is the corset. This season Kronthaler and his team took to reimagining the cult favorite with accordion sleeves—recall the look that opened the show. Look 68 embraced the romantic by wrapping a boned corset in white lace. As its neckline rises over the bust and envelopes the décolletage in a splendid spherical motion, its lace trim peers over, transposing an empirical regality to its wearer.

Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood’s vernacular will undeniably experience a momentous shift in tone now that its founder is gone. The subversive spirit and the brazen desire to experiment are still definitely there. However, only time will tell how Kronthaler will articulate the house’s vision on his own.

Vivienne’s otherworldly imagination made her collections come to life and leave their mark on this world. Now, the challenge with Vivienne Westwood lies with continuing to excite while progressing the vision of a house so tied to its creator. From punk to pirates to Old Master paintings, witches, and everything in between, conceptualizing new collections will test Kronthaler to spark innovation past its heritage.

It is possible with a daring spirit and a knack for spotting brilliance in the unexpected, of course. After all, those were the bones on which Vivienne Westwood herself once built the house.

Discover More