Issey Miyake Brings Us Down to Earth in Their Autumn/Winter Collection

Rectangular fabric cuts introduce a variety of textures and patterns to the lookbook

Issey Miyake has made concerted efforts to explore the relationship between clothing and the body throughout their collections over the years. And their newest collection for Autumn/Winter 2021/22 takes that relationship further by creating garments perfectly suited for any body.

Titled “As the Way It Comes to Be,” the collection, designed by Satoshi Kondo, features rectangular fabric cuts that have been dyed, pleated, and textured in a variety of different ways to accentuate the body and present interesting silhouettes, ranging from straight up-and-downs to circular forms. 

These silhouettes are predominantly flowy, long, oversized, prioritizing loose fits over sleek shapes that serve the purpose of adaptability, being the garment of choice for any body shape or size. It also allows for effective layering and mash-ups, although the general sizing proportions of the collection focus on larger, statement garments than those that would put together as complete outfits.

The collection embraces a natural tone, evident in the unstructured shapes and earthy colors prevalent throughout, in shades of brown, beige, tan, lavender, yellow, aqua, and white. Pantsuits, jumpsuits, button downs, silk dresses, overcoats, trenches form the majority of the collection that, in a very simplified way, you could call “business casual,” the kind of outfit choices that embody ready-to-wear.

The fabrics and patterns are the real stars of the show here. Featuring blends of silk, wool, and cotton, the collection uses them in their natural elements, featuring coats with raw wool colors. The pleated patterns give some shape and dimension to the clothes as well. A particular highlight is the use of the suminagashi style, a traditional technique of the craftspeople of Kyoto where they drop dyes on the surface of water, allowing them to naturally expand and create the look of stones on the garments. 

The presentation of the collection comes via a visual that features dark and heavy instrumentation, almost reminiscent of church-music, on the verge of Biblical allegory. The showcase feels like the middle of a psychological indie drama film, shot in picturesque fields and empty buildings, featuring wide open spaces that give the larger-than-life fabrics their room to breathe.

Check out Issey Miyake’s 2021/2022 Autumn/Winter Collection on their Instagram page here. You can also find it on their website.

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