After the tragic passing of one of fashion’s greatest modern-day legends in August, there was a heavy anticipation to see what would become of the fashion house, Issey Miyake. The show opened with a moment of memoriam for Miyake, with projections of his image across the venue accompanied by a quote from the late designer, “I believe there is hope in design. Design evokes surprise and joy in people.”

The Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection was spearheaded by head designer Satoshi Kondo and the design team, who were working with Miyake closely before his passing. “We see design as a process driven by curiosity, built upon a comprehensive exploration — bringing joy, wonder, and hope to life, and of course with a touch of playfulness,” says Kondo. The show began with a series of garments constructed out of a single piece of fabric, designed to mimic statues. Similarly to that of a carved sculpture, the pieces act as a strong memoriam to the designer and his genius in innovating minimalistic yet powerful designs. 

Miyake’s signature pleats are revisited in spherically pleated suits, with a 100% plant-based polyester created by house collaborator, Toray Industries Inc. — a huge technological feat in the advancement of creating more environmentally-minded textiles. Pleats were twisted and sculpted into invigorating silhouettes throughout the middle of the collection, in a joyous celebration of the practice Miyake was most known for.

Ribbed knit dresses undulate in fantastical forms, clinging close to the body before spouting outwards, basking in the sweet strangeness of their own materialization. The deep neutrals of the collections are enlivened by bright pops of color, almost like the design team finding a celebration of life in the heavy-hearted wake of Miyake’s death. The collection concluded with a dance performance, in true Miyake show style, showing off not only the mobility of the garments, but the ever-euphoric nature of Miyake’s legendary designs.