Cozying into their new position at their new house, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are having fun. In Paris’ Château de Vincennes, a yellow brick road-eque catwalk paves the way for the new Fall Winter 2026 collection.

When attendees trickled into the show, a castle just on the fringes of the city, the dress code quickly revealed itself as unfearing of Paris’ famed pickpockets and requiring unzipped, one-handle bags. America’s sweetheart, Sarah Pidgeon, dangled hers on her side, while Thai actor, Tawan, opted to sling his over his shoulder. Hand in hand, True Whitaker and Talia Rider entered the grounds with bags swinging from opposing arms, twinning in disheveled stripe tank dresses—a design familiar to Jack and Lazaro’s inaugural collection at the house. However, the contents of the purses remained a mystery, inviting speculation about what might be concealed inside, both in the bags and throughout the venue.

Courtesy of LOEWE

The true magic of Loewe’s new duo is in their knack for outerwear. Hairy fringe coats, inflatable raincoats, and rubber-y leather coats, shaped in Polly Pocket-esque molds. Coats with matching fur paws, coats with pompous hoods, coats with protruding, flared collars. In times like these, a whimsical coatrack with a sense of humour feels necessary.

Courtesy of LOEWE

Photography by Molly SJ Lowe | Courtesy of LOEWE

“Humour can be revolutionary, at times the most piercing way to deliver a serious message,” Jack and Lazaro write in the show notes. This mindset, combined with Loewe’s lighthearted spirit and inclusive ethos, led the designers to Cosima von Bonin, who filled the front row with black velvet-stuffed lobsters, googly-eyed clams, and obtuse octopus sculptures. “Her sculptures enter into a direct dialogue with the collection, resulting in a free exchange of experimentation, ingenuity, and wit across mediums. More than once, we thought of a key tenet in the theory of games and play: ‘A finite game is played for the purpose of winning, an infinite game for the purpose of continuing the play.’ What is fashion but an open field for endless creative play?”

And play touches every corner of this collection. Wool-y yarn tails trail behind and up the bodice of an otherwise simple violet dress, wrapping around the neck. Even the foreshadowed unzipped bags communicate a mischievous allure, appearing in fur backpack silhouettes and butter-yellow leather hues.

Photography by Molly SJ Lowe | Courtesy of LOEWE

Each look reveals something more the longer you stare. Inflatable pockets balloon out of oversized plaid coats, almost masking the campy aqua shoes paired at the model’s feet. A patterned inner shell peeks from some hoods, while others envelop models’ heads in a sculptural cocoon, reminiscent of a scuba suit.

“As we began conceptualising our second collection at LOEWE, we were struck by a simple truth: for us, the act of making is, at its core, an expression of joy—an intellectual, process-driven pursuit charged with playfulness. The path taken matters as much as the end result.”