Jacquemus' Latest "LE PAPIER" Fall/Winter 2022 Collection Is Pure Poetry

Jacquemus' Latest "LE PAPIER" Fall/Winter 2022 Collection Is Pure Poetry

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Jacquemus' Latest "LE PAPIER" Fall/Winter 2022 Collection Is Pure Poetry

By intersecting the artistic direction of the Giacometti brothers with the ingenious imagination of Jacquemus, the designer stunningly embraces a trompe l'oeil simplicity in his latest collection.

By intersecting the artistic direction of the Giacometti brothers with the ingenious imagination of Jacquemus, the designer stunningly embraces a trompe l'oeil simplicity in his latest collection.

Text: Maddie Street

Presented in the implausibly elegant “salin” of Camargue in the South of France, the eponymous label Jacquemus unveiled his latest Fall/Winter 2022 Collection, “Le Papier.” The collection celebrates the shared affinity that encapsulates the otherwise otherworldy vast Girauld salt marshes of France—chosen with the desire to highlight places with extraordinary simplicity, a minimal décor whose natural poetry is briefly interrupted by Jacquemus’s creative narrative.

With an emphasis on the artisanal exploration of natural materials, the collection displayed the ingenious imagination of Jacquemus in a comprehensive harmony. Being as this was Simon’s first show since his FW21 Collection in Hawaii, he chose to enter into a dialogue with the art of the Giacometti brothers. As true, supple sculptures, Diego and Albert Giacometti’s plaster sculptures were used as the artistic reference for the collection. Beautifully encapsulating feelings of intimacy, beauty, and subtlety within the clothing.

The Jacquemus x Nike collaboration was also presented at this time.

Diego Giacometti’s lamps inspire the twisted linen suspenders, while the jewelry made of plaster or modeling clay pays homage to Alberto Giacometti’s quest for austerity. The garments are deconstructed to better conserve the pattern piece lines. Others are stuffed to emphasize the comfortable, airy volumes.

Bestowed as creative narratives, linen and the collection’s other fabrics are a departure point for the build-up of a craft initiative. Giving proper applause to a game of materials, this introduction then shows rough renderings, similar to dressmaker muslins, that make details more visible. The raw edges at the ends of the linen garments are like finished sketches, and we also see uncluttered, topstitched motifs that resemble giant fragments. With their artisanal overtones, these sewing details set the pace for the collection and reveal silhouettes with a trompe l’oeil simplicity.

Padded linens infringe on workwear uniform codes, while ceremonial garments fluctuate between revealed details and unexpected coverings. These couture silhouettes were decorated with bows, bands, dramatic trains, and visible petticoats, celebrating clothing for special occasions. This season, the lingerie pieces Jacquemus includes in each of his collections illustrate the fluid contours between the indoor and outdoor living spaces so typical of Provence.

Shown in sensitive, minimal silhouettes for a woman’s wardrobe accompanied by epicene pieces such as the Humara sneaker. Natural colors enhance the subtle lingerie details and sensual, technical cuts.

Watch the full show below:

Credits: Courtesy of Jacquemus and Jonathan Frantini

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