If nostalgia hosted a party and invited the future, it would look like Jacquemus’s “LA CROISIÈRE.” Marking its return to the Paris Fashion Week calendar, the show was more than a nod to the French house’s heritage—it was a bold reimagining. Blending Hollywood glamour, post-war optimism, and the technicolor dream of making it big that defined its early days, Jacquemus distilled these themes into a seamless fusion of retro and contemporary elegance that was the “LA CROISIÈRE” show.
Courtesy of Jacquemus
The collection felt like stepping into a reimagined 1950s, infused with the energy and innovation of today’s craftsmanship. The history of Jacquemus, founded by Simon Porte Jacquemus, was brought to life with the spotlight on mid-century silhouettes reinterpreted for modern consumption. Tailored hourglass dresses in crisp cotton poplin, soft tulle skirts with dropped waists, and sculptural busts made for a familiar and foreign, wearable yet outspoken lineup. The use of geometrics softened by design innovation influenced many of the garments. Many pieces evoked distinct shapes, from the sinched waistlines to the large Ovalo curved sleeves.
In the menswear department, the models embraced clean-cut, sporty lines with double-breasted jackets and slim trousers, a bow to iconic American sportswear. One of the standout pieces from the men’s collection was a zebra-printed jacket with a striking high neckline and a slightly oversized silhouette, structured yet simultaneously subdued. The most captivating garment for women was a bleached white crocodile dress. The dress’s full length and high neck impose an elegant impression upon the garment. While the sleeves extending past the leather with what appears like long white and curly lamb fur introduce play elements. The waist of the dress was snitched with a waist overlay—a recurring accessory in the collection presenting in an array of hues from red croc to banana yellow and beige.
Courtesy of Jacquemus
The collection’s outstanding color palette remains most impressive—shades of ecru and black punctuated with bold red, green, orange, and banana-yellow accents. The texture play was mesmerizing: gauzy organza, feather-light knits, and fibrous raffia offered visual depth, while ostrich feathers and flocked polka dots and stripes introduced playful elements to the garments. Accessories also occupied the runway, from handsome leather clutches with thick metal detailing to familiar-shaped leather totes, tennis shoes, and bow kitten heels.
Courtesy of Jacquemus
To elevate the show even further and pay respect to the nostalgic mood, the entire show was filmed on the iPhone 16 Pro Max, making this the first fashion show to use the device exclusively. On the theme of new, Jacquemus also teased their latest and first-ever Nike collaboration on the runway with Moon Shoes—a nod to 1970s athletic innovation. The fashion meets sports collaboration blends the appearance of vintage trail shoes with appendages from the original ’97 Humara.
Courtesy of Jacquemus
It appears “LA CROISIÈRE” wasn’t only a celebration of fashion but of storytelling. Jacquemus reinforced its identity as a house that looks backward and forward in equal measure – borrowing from the past while presenting new and defining ways to reapproach them. Jacquemus proved that history is not only something to be studied but something to be reimagined and stitched into the present.