Le Naufrage turned the runway into a maritime fable, where each look became a character in a chronicle lost at sea.

Mélusine, the opening look, foreshadows the collection’s duality of a sea goddess balancing allure and danger. Swathed in verdigris satin duchesse with silver nappa lacing, she slips into a translucent silk organza mermaid skirt shimmering with metal netted beading.

What follows is Anne Bonny, the fearless pirate queen in oak cashmere and a flourish of sea-green silk mousseline, while John Swann reinvents the masculine corset in a tailored wool jacket and capri pants, both refined and rakish. The Helm turns shipwreck into couture. A macramé minidress built like the skeleton of a ship, with silk mousseline boning that looks like torn sails after a storm.

Spectral entity Venus emerges in a laddered brunette voile, her silhouette trailing like water in motion. Ariel, wrapped in twelve meters of sequined rigging rope, is a siren both bound and free, her mermaid fantasy weighed down by the weight of fate. Mary Read takes the air of a seafaring legend, her ruffled tulle gown anchored by an oak silk shantung corset, while She Was A Fairy, zips across the stage in a sky-blue plissé Grès minidress.

Then comes Cupid, a playful disruption among the shipwrecked models, nearly bare in eyelet-stitched briefs and pheasant-feather wings. The Statuette is a vision of stillness and grace, encased in oak plissé Grès jersey voile, every fold a tribute to classical drapery. L’Empreinte glows like remnants of a shipwrecked jewel, its nude stretch tulle embroidered with volcanic sand crystal beading, wrapped in silk-thread mooring rope. The Net entangles its wearer in hand-crocheted black cotton fishnet, a siren’s final snare.

Then, the creatures of the deep rise. The Hydra and The Leviathan loom over the runway like ancient beasts, their anthracite latex ‘crocodile skin’ gowns refracting light like wet scales, sculpted into sharp, reptilian silhouettes.

From the wreckage, figures of power rise. Jeanne is bound in pebble-grey lambskin, her corseted gown laced with 75 meters of tonal nappa, a vision of restraint and release. The Captain commands in black satin de laine, his cinched corset glinting with silver eyelets, a feathered galleon hat crowning authority. The Anchor is rooted in black dentelle chantilly de Calais, its godet hem flaring like a tide caught mid-motion. The Premonition arrives in scarlet mousseline changeante, a brass-wired crin motif tracing Naufrage across the bust.

Then, there are the rulers of this lost kingdom. The Narrator tells the tale in a double-breasted black brocade jacket, its antique gold buttons glinting like coins lost at sea. Mary, Queen of Melrose, exudes regality in a degradé Swarovski crystal mesh tartan gown that dissolves into black ostrich feathers. Le Marin wears the sailor’s corsetted tailcoat, its scooped lapels and extended cuffs lending a touch of old-world naval romance. Ana Maria ignites the runway in a scarlet dentelle chantilly de Calais shift dress, its flamenco hem flickering with passion.

Perhaps my favorite look, The Scorpio sweeps through a formidable vision of controlled chaos. The look is built around a trained gown in rigid black silk tulle, its sheer volume suggesting both danger and allure. Like its namesake, The Scorpio is untouchable and intoxicating.

The Virgo glows in a silver Swarovski crystal mesh column gown, ethereal and untouchable. Aphrodite is draped in 250 meters of sea foam silk tulle, flowing effortlessly around her, cinched at the waist in cream silk shantung—completely divine. La Veuve is draped in black silk tulle, her gathered sleeves like a widow’s veil, while La Comtesse de Saint Sernin owns and lives up to her title in a white cotton guipure tailcoat. It’s flounced hem and sleeves fit for aristocracy.

The collection closes with a pair of lovers lost at sea. Le Marié steps forward in a blouse with peasant style sleeves, and a corset in pearl satin cuir. A romantic yet androgynous figure, while La Mariée appears as a specter of bridal tradition. Her corseted form shrouded in embroidered ostrich feathers, trailing a silk organza train like the remnants of a wedding never fulfilled. Together, they close the show as characters of a romance untethered from time.